Boost creep with new FMIC??? HELP PLEASE???

[marcus]

Hi all,

Recently I installed a FMIC on my R33 and am noticing a boost creep at mid - hight RPM (4500 +). The bleed valve is set @10psi, but it continues to creep up to about 13psi before the redline, with no power gain after 10psi.

Also like one of the previous posts the flutter noise on the BOV (turbosmart) has slowed down quite a bit and goes off on like 5vac on the boost gauge and under 2000rpm.

Have checked all plumbing several times but no difference. Please help as its confusing the hell out of me....

Ta

Marcus

[R31Nismoid]

your running a bleed valve.

expect it too creep depending on what it it is.

You will get negligable power gains above 10psi on a stock RB25 turbo anyway.

[marcus]

So boost creep with bigger FMIC is normal then? I have a turbosmart bleed valve.

One thing I forgot to add to my original post was that ever since the installation, on cruise @ low rpm, regardless of which gear, the car sort of jolts (like has hickups) however under acceleration its fine. The only other thing done to the car at the same time was a 5" cold air intake to the pod. But I can't see how that would cause any problems... Any Ideas, anyone???

[MYS013]

I had a lot of boost creep when I installed my FMIC, this is without a bleed valve too. Mine went from about 0.5bar to 0.6 and some days 0.7!

[marcus]

Actually I tried with and without the bleed valve and mine continues to creep till it redlines (up to 12psi). So how did you fix it?

[marcus]

bump

[R33silverS2]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but i have a question regarding manual boost controllers etc. My car has a pod, fmic, zorst etc, stock ecu all the usual bells and whistles.

however, i have disconnected the standard solenoid, i.e running vac line straight from fmic piping to wategate actuator yet my boost still slowly creeps up till redline. the car runs 6psi till about 4500 then as if it had the dual stage connected it slowly increases with the rpm to 10psi by redline. My question is, if i install a bleeder / ball spring boost tee, will it enable me to increase the boost earlier on, as in reach 10psi quicker rather than it slowly increasing to it by redline? Or will it make both levels of boost increase, i.e if i make what was 6psi go to 10psi, will my 10psi go to 14psi?

thanks

Edited December 1, 2006 by R33silverS2

[sewid]

Sounds like you did it wrong. 5psi to 4500 - 5000 is normal then the solenoid opens and you get more boost.

[R33silverS2]

Sounds like you did it wrong. 5psi to 4500 - 5000 is normal then the solenoid opens and you get more boost.

Sounds like but i don't think so, like i said the solenoid is totally disconnected, the line runs from the fmic piping to the actuator, the hose from the solenoid that used to be tee'd into this line has just been blocked off also. buggered if i know. still anyone know if a manual boost controller will give a net increase i.e increase all boost levels by a ceratain amount, or will it enable me to bring the earlier level up to 10psi and then hold 10??

[Rolls]

If the bleed valve has really long vacuum lines going to it you can experience spiking and creeping. Id get rid of it and just run the standard boost, which with an exhaust will be almost 10psi.

[R33silverS2]

thanks, but the thing is i dont have a bleed valve atm, it is just running standard and reaching 10psi, my issue is that it reaches 10 psi just before redline, so basically what i would like to know is would a bleeder of some description enable me to reach full boost (10psi) earlier in the rev range?