Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I might be interested later this year, if this offer still exists then. Haven't done any research into turbos though yet. I'd be looking at something good for a R34 GTT Auto. Something thats a good streetable turbo IE don't have to wait till 5000rpm till it makes good boost. Maybe even hiflo stock GTT turbo, not sure how this responds compared to stock 32/33 turbos but they are larger apparently.

You don't need to do any research.

These are the questions I need answered:

How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? eg. 300rwhp/210rwkw or engine hp/kw

What are you using the car for? eg. Street/Drag or just Street or just Drag

When do you want boost roughly? eg. 2200/2500 or 2500/3000 or later

Do you want power early or late in the rev range?

What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust etc.?

Obviously, what car?

Intercooled? and is it large, small, medium?

Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there?

Custom exhaust manifold or standard? (custom exhaust manifolds give you more options)

External wastegate or internal(limited to virtually 450hp)?

With this information I can give you a range of turbo's or just one that will suit your requirements. The more picky you are, the less range. eg:

if you want big horsepower: 5 or 6 decent turbos will suit

if you want big horsepower but want it smooth delivery at 3000rpm then it narrows it down to probably only one. There is a turbo to suit every request and any turbo can be modified to suit your needs.

So you give me info, I'll tell you what turbo/turbos will suit and you can do some homework on what I have given you and decide what you want.

How does that sound?

Answers:

RWKW? Enough to have a bit of fun on occasional track days.

90% street use

Boost @ 2500 rpm on but not dying above 6k

Early or late in range.. best average power from 2500 up

Stock standard R34GTT auto.

Thats why I said later on cos I'll need time to put on Full zorst, FMIC, EBC,

Fuel pump etc.

Internally gated sounds fine for what I want.

I expect <=250rwkw to be plenty for me.

Main issues for me are reliability and streetability/response.

Answers:

RWKW? Enough to have a bit of fun on occasional track days.

90% street use

Boost @ 2500 rpm on but not dying above 6k

Early or late in range.. best average power from 2500 up

Stock standard R34GTT auto.

Thats why I said later on cos I'll need time to put on Full zorst, FMIC, EBC,

Fuel pump etc.

Internally gated sounds fine for what I want.

I expect <=250rwkw to be plenty for me.

Main issues for me are reliability and streetability/response.

You will probably be looking for something like what I am getting.

rated at 450hp, ball bearing. Easily capable of handling 300rwkw. Plus boost will come on full at around 2200-2600 depending on what level you wanna run. But should be able to get around 16psi at 2300rpm. And it will hold it through 9000rpm. Would cost you around $1700

i will answer questions for him as best i can:

As much HP for a tiny budget - doesn't have to be real crazy

Street use mainly

Boost aroun 2500-3k

Power Early in revs

blitz FMIC/3" exhaust, POD, boost controller

R33 series 1

Big BLITZ FMIC

Stock ECU/AFM setup

Custom dumps - 3" cat back

Main thing right now is he wants one that is almost exactly the same as stock 33 one - so just bolt on, attach current lines and away he drives..

No real budget right now - get me some prices on cheaper ones and expensive ones too - around the 1k mark

Not after massive power figures - just bigger than stock :D

Something to handle 450hp would be the same as above mentioned. $1700.

It doesn't really have a model number as such. It does but it is a custom made job by Garrett themselves. They make them to order.

If he just wants to hi-flow his one it will probably still set him back around $1300 depending on how bad he has damaged it.

All of these turbo's will bolt straight up to 33 manifold.

As I said before. The above mentioned turbo is a Garrett GT450hp ball bearing turbo. I can probably get something slightly smaller for around $1600 but they don't get much cheaper than that. Especially for BRAND NEW.

G'day Daniel,

I'm looking for a twin setup for my R33 GTR, along the lines or equivalent to 2530's.

What turbo's would you advise and how much?

The car is fairly stock, cat back, pods, and about to insatall a Power FC.

Then you will need the Garrett GT2530 twins rated at 500hp. As I said in the pm, they are available at 600hp and 700hp ratings also but this would not work effectively on yours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...