Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My Link was bout $1100 without hand controller. Its a plug in but you gotta put link gear in factory ecu case. (Stealth) :P I friend has one in his STI and it runs perfectly. But as I said to you b4 mine hasnt been tuned yet so I cant really comment.

I have a LINK ecu in my 32 gtst.

I've had no problems what-so-ever apart from mechanics 'claiming' they can tune it, when they know fcuk all and screwed my car completely.

So be weary.

The two workshops that have tuned my car with success is Amberley Autos and AVO.

I have a severe problem at the moment with it though, as i am building another 32 gtst and have put the ecu into my new car, and i am MISSING the LINK map sensor !!! :D

Its weird, the r32 GTR LINK ecu, will run on the factory nissan map sensor, but the r32 gtst requires a LINK map sensor.

AVO have no more map sensors, and they dont know when they will be getting anymore... so this is stressing me out big time.

The only down side, is that the handcontroller has limited read out information i.e. only 1 line screen.

Ive searched and found bugger all threads on link engine management

Yes, there is a reason for that

but have been told they are the shiznit (no afm needed)

Brings me back to comment one.

If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

Ok, if your going to make a bold statement like that, you need to suggest/list some factual information here.

You are like 90% of the other posts on here that just go with 'the flow'

"Everyone Else Is Doing It, So It MUST Be Good !"

And thats the biggest crock of sh1t, and i hate reading peoples posts who have no actual idea what they are talking about, they just post what other people do.

List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

Sorry a was referring to your comment about the hand controller. Wasn't sure if you knew about the PClink stuff.  

At the same time I guess a laptop in the car all the time is hardly convenient.

Adam

hehe, yeah i was merely comparing the handcontroller to a Wolf3D handcontroller or a PFC handcontroller which give you a range of information on the one screen.

Link have just brought out a few new products including a new ECU.

I know a lot of people using it as well as a few people who work for Link.

Like any ECU it's all about the tuner.

I have had bad luck with previous LINK computers and bad tuners.. and good luck with PowerFC and it working from just being plugged in.

If you have a good tuner that likes LINK, then it will work fine. Might be worth trying out LINKs new products.

Link is a "average" ECU.

For its price it is good - but compared to other ECU's its .... crap.

I had a link in my WRX ad it was good for what it cost me.

In regard to fuel point and ignition points for tunablity its crap compared to Motec, Autronics and even Apexi. It also lacks fuel correction for air temp, full throttle, closed throttle etc,,,

Link is crap - dont awaste your time or money - keep saving for a better ecu.

Check out the ECU Matrix here at Perth WRX - shows you a great comparison between the ecu's

http://web3.bekkers.com.au/~pwrx/phpBB2/vi...opic.php?t=6121

Daniel

List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

yes, im more interested in fact as well

the more i look into them, the better they sound, im just wondering why more people arent using them

The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc all very noticable. But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing. Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc  all very noticable.  But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing.  Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

This is something i notice straight away, and it really tells the story as to whether a car has been tuned properly for driveability.

i NEVER had this issue with my LINK when it was tuned properly.

One thing that rings true though is that my car chews through fuel, and runs extremely rich.

But thats fine by me, last thing i want is the thing running lean... i cant expect a car with 300+rwhp to be decent on fuel. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...