Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My Link was bout $1100 without hand controller. Its a plug in but you gotta put link gear in factory ecu case. (Stealth) :P I friend has one in his STI and it runs perfectly. But as I said to you b4 mine hasnt been tuned yet so I cant really comment.

I have a LINK ecu in my 32 gtst.

I've had no problems what-so-ever apart from mechanics 'claiming' they can tune it, when they know fcuk all and screwed my car completely.

So be weary.

The two workshops that have tuned my car with success is Amberley Autos and AVO.

I have a severe problem at the moment with it though, as i am building another 32 gtst and have put the ecu into my new car, and i am MISSING the LINK map sensor !!! :D

Its weird, the r32 GTR LINK ecu, will run on the factory nissan map sensor, but the r32 gtst requires a LINK map sensor.

AVO have no more map sensors, and they dont know when they will be getting anymore... so this is stressing me out big time.

The only down side, is that the handcontroller has limited read out information i.e. only 1 line screen.

Ive searched and found bugger all threads on link engine management

Yes, there is a reason for that

but have been told they are the shiznit (no afm needed)

Brings me back to comment one.

If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

Ok, if your going to make a bold statement like that, you need to suggest/list some factual information here.

You are like 90% of the other posts on here that just go with 'the flow'

"Everyone Else Is Doing It, So It MUST Be Good !"

And thats the biggest crock of sh1t, and i hate reading peoples posts who have no actual idea what they are talking about, they just post what other people do.

List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

Sorry a was referring to your comment about the hand controller. Wasn't sure if you knew about the PClink stuff.  

At the same time I guess a laptop in the car all the time is hardly convenient.

Adam

hehe, yeah i was merely comparing the handcontroller to a Wolf3D handcontroller or a PFC handcontroller which give you a range of information on the one screen.

Link have just brought out a few new products including a new ECU.

I know a lot of people using it as well as a few people who work for Link.

Like any ECU it's all about the tuner.

I have had bad luck with previous LINK computers and bad tuners.. and good luck with PowerFC and it working from just being plugged in.

If you have a good tuner that likes LINK, then it will work fine. Might be worth trying out LINKs new products.

Link is a "average" ECU.

For its price it is good - but compared to other ECU's its .... crap.

I had a link in my WRX ad it was good for what it cost me.

In regard to fuel point and ignition points for tunablity its crap compared to Motec, Autronics and even Apexi. It also lacks fuel correction for air temp, full throttle, closed throttle etc,,,

Link is crap - dont awaste your time or money - keep saving for a better ecu.

Check out the ECU Matrix here at Perth WRX - shows you a great comparison between the ecu's

http://web3.bekkers.com.au/~pwrx/phpBB2/vi...opic.php?t=6121

Daniel

List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

yes, im more interested in fact as well

the more i look into them, the better they sound, im just wondering why more people arent using them

The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc all very noticable. But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing. Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc  all very noticable.  But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing.  Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

This is something i notice straight away, and it really tells the story as to whether a car has been tuned properly for driveability.

i NEVER had this issue with my LINK when it was tuned properly.

One thing that rings true though is that my car chews through fuel, and runs extremely rich.

But thats fine by me, last thing i want is the thing running lean... i cant expect a car with 300+rwhp to be decent on fuel. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...