Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Hoping a few aircon gurus are floating around.

I finally got around to have my aircon converted to 134a. The system (ie compressor, etc) is fine -- no leaks or loss of compression -- but the system won't come on unless you muck around with the relays.

The aircon guy had a fiddle but couldn't get it to "go" (without playing with the relays). Basically something between the control panel and the relays doesn't seem to be working.

When I got home I went through the diagnostic mode and got a "25" and "-26" error. According to the workshop manual that means there is an error with the sunlight sensor (25) and a shorted PBR sensor (26).

I'm guessing the problem with the sunlight sensor was that it was being blocked, so I am not overly concered about that. The PBR sensor is more of a worry because the system is reporting that its shorted. First off, can someone explain WTF the PBR sensor is and what it does? Secondly, whats the go with fixing a shorted sensor? Finally, is a shorted PBR likely to be why the aircon won't come on unless manually started via the relays?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66402-aircon-help-needed/
Share on other sites

I'm guessing the problem with the sunlight sensor was that it was being blocked, so I am not overly concered about that.  The PBR sensor is more of a worry because the system is reporting that its shorted.  First off, can someone explain WTF the PBR sensor is and what it does?  Secondly, whats the go with fixing a shorted sensor?  Finally, is a shorted PBR likely to be why the aircon won't come on unless manually started via the relays?

Check page HA13 of the factory WS manual, it describes how to check the PBR sensor. Seems to measure the air mix on the outlet to the cabin.

Check page HA13 of the factory WS manual, it describes how to check the PBR sensor.  Seems to measure the air mix on the outlet to the cabin.

Hi Steve,

Yeah, but the description sucks :P I found some helpful stuff on the Hong Kong Skyline club: apparently PBR stands for Potention Balance Resistor, and is part of the cooling coil in the mode door motor, which is attached to the heater.

http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...sp?TID=310&PN=1

Now I just have to work out what the other two missing fuses are for: #2 (ignition "Electronic Parts") and #3 ("Transmission Control" -- given its a manual this obviously isn't an issue).

Anyone have a clue what the #2 fuse actually does (on a R32 GT-R)? Can't find any info and I haven't noticed any obvious things not working in the car.

predator: Arr, that sucks. Those aircon assemblies can be quite expensive to buy :)

LW.

Annoyingly, the fuse I replaced popped again after about an hour of driving with the aircon on. *sigh*.

Any clever suggestions on finding whatever is drawing that little bit too much?

Edit: Whoops. I meant the aircon was on for about an hour before the fuse died.

Cheers,

Lucien.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...