Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i put my r33 gtst on the dyno today to see what it does.

The only things done to the car are a pod filter and a 3" mandrel bent exaust and dump pipe, and a blitz bov.

Is 153.7kw (205.96hp) a good reading for these mods and stock internals? i was told 130kw was about average, so i was pretty impressed with the results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66470-r33-dyno-reading/
Share on other sites

I've seen a dead stock R33 make 130rwkw.

20rwkw from an exhaust is what my R32 picked up so I would say 20rwkw for yours is not out of the question.

130 + 20 is 150rwkw. :) So it appears to be around the mark.

Dyno's obviously vary so where one stock R33 may make 140rwkw may make 160rwkw with an exhaust. It gives you an idea.

Now what I would be looking forward to is upping boost to 11psi, fitting that powerfc and intercooler then cracking 190rwkw.

You could also fit an Adj. cam gear and nudge near 210rwkw. :D

11psi is nice and reliable. I wouldn'y look at running anymore, for what? another 10rwkw :)

It very well could be the straw that broke the camels back.

Any plans to do the above? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66470-r33-dyno-reading/#findComment-1237601
Share on other sites

Yeah, the next engine mods were going to be a power fc and front mount. The air fuel ratio was really eratic, but i was told that can be faily common, and a new computer would fix it anyway. So i'm pretty keen.

Do you think its worth getting the hand controller?

I was looking at the hybrid intercooler kits, how do you rate them?

I'm going to take it to the drags in a couple of weeks to also see what the car can do before any major upgrades.

11 psi seems the go, but i could push it to 14psi before blowing up the turbo right? or is that just a little bit close to the edge?

The dyno run was done on Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer, which i was told is pretty accurate, but yeah they can vary a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66470-r33-dyno-reading/#findComment-1237838
Share on other sites

dyno readings are over rated most of the time. i put my stock line and mean stock and it pulled 141kw atrw and this was on a mildly warm day. The dyno was meant to be ok to so i was a bit wtf. but since then i have popped the full exhaust on K+n panel filter and about to fit a FMIC and bleed valve and push her up to about 10 - 11psi pending dyno results eg if their is much difference between the two. so yea 150 sounds good for those mods but make sure the dyno is setup correctly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66470-r33-dyno-reading/#findComment-1237932
Share on other sites

yeah i think that was just about right... my 95 gtst was 160rwkw on 8psi and only mods then was front mount intercooler and 4' cat back exhause and hks pod filter. ( as far as i know )

but that was 7 months ago...now the car has a fair few mods..right now it has the 3 dump pipe,.high flowed cat and nismo air filter.

and the rest are about to go in 2 weeks just waiting for my wastegate to arrive.

T70 turbo with custom manifold

044 fuel pump with 550cc injectors

wolf 3d V4 computer

and a set of cams

hopefully my clutch holds though once everything's installed...but i was thinking of waiting till i get new clutch before i install all of them as my clutch is starting to slip.

so yeah... i am getting there...and hopefully the next time i take her to the dyno., i see a little bit over 200rwkw..i'd be happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66470-r33-dyno-reading/#findComment-1238420
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...