Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have had an ever increasing number of people ask me about tuning their car without going to a dyno. They may live too far away, not have the budget or they simply may want to do it themselves. I have accumulated a few A/F ratio meters over time. I thought to help guys out, I might rent a couple of them out. They are not too expensive to buy, but the maintenance can be relatively high, you have to clean the lambda sensor and perform calibration regularly.

So......

How many would be interested in renting one for a week for say $100? That would cover maintenance and repairs etc. What you would get is;

*a wide band lambda sensor

*long lead to reach to the tail pipe

*a clamp for holding the lambda sensor in the tail pipe

*a meter and controller with sensor preheating for accuracy

*a mount and vacuum cup for attaching the display to the windscreen

*a cigarette lighter power plug & supply

*a full set of intructions

*a laptop interface and logging software to load (not necessary for tuning)

*all mailed out to you in an aluminium case

What you don't get;

*you are doing the tuning, if you damage your engine it's your problem

*if you get busted breaking the road rules, it's your problem

*I don't have time for dial up support, maybe email would be OK though

*insurance, if you break it or loose it, you pay for it

*a lap top, you supply your own, if you want to do logging

*credit, you pay up front and there will be a deposit (not sure how much yet)

*freight, you have to pay both ways, it's light, so $10 should cover almost anywhere in Oz

*instant supply, I only have 2 suitable units and I don't want to buy more. So you may have to wait until one becomes available

*to use leaded fuel, it must be unleaded

* to send it back dirty and greasy, clean it please

*your deposit refunded until it is received in good condition

This is a survey for me to judge the response, so post away. If I get enough interest I will be ready to go in about 3 weeks, as I would have to clean, service and calibrate the 2 units.

:D

You never cease to amaze me Sydney Kid in that you are allways prepared to go out of your way to help others, you are or should be made a legend.

When I have all my stuff up and ready to go I would love to take you up on your offer and $100 sounds like a good deal.

It would also give me a chance to callibrate my new digital fuel mixture meter gauge from silicone chip to see if it can be made accurate enough.

Thanks again I allready owe you one for bringing the other silicone chip products to us although I haven't fit mine yet.

Thank You :D:)

Gary

I've been spending WAY too much time learning at the HPTuners website so I can help out a GENIII boat anchor Commodore driver.

This is exactly what I need to start applying what I've learnt. Thanks for taking out the hunting for meters.

Adrian

Sounds like a great idea, out of interest what sensors are you using? Im at a bosch distrubutor so if you want some pricing on some bosch widebands...

The wide-band O2 sensor I would use for this is the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire. It is easy to calibrate, warms up pretty quick and is fairly stable. So it is easy for novices to use, which is more import than getting 0.1% more accuracy or super fast response. Road tuning is not as demanding on those parameters as dyno tuning, ie; you have time.

They cost $US79 plus ~$A10 freight, no duty (US free trade agreement) and generally don't get GST'd. I haven't priced one locally for a couple of years, they were more than triple that when I last checked. What do they go for now?

:rofl:

The wide-band O2 sensor I would use for this is the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire.  It is easy to calibrate, warms up pretty quick and is fairly stable.  So it is easy for novices to use, which is more import than getting 0.1% more accuracy or super fast response.  Road tuning is not as demanding on those parameters as dyno tuning, ie; you have time.

They cost $US79 plus ~$A10 freight, no duty (US free trade agreement) and generally don't get GST'd.  I haven't priced one locally for a couple of years, they were more than triple that when I last checked.  What do they go for now?

:rofl:

Sounds good SK, I think it'd be a good thing to rent this equipment for those wanting to tune at home.

But I'd like to buy one of these sensors myself, I have been looking around but they seemed pretty pricey, at least when I was looking a few months back. Are you selling any, or able to get any for a reasonable price, as I'd be interested in getting one.

*keeps an eye on this thread* :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...