Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lo all ...

possibly thinking of getting a stagea in the comming months, need a car with more boot space and passenger space, the r33 just cant cut it ....

anyway, i cant stand autos, just somthing personal to me, so would be looking for a manual version, i know they are limited, or manual conversion ...

so, the questions is how much should i be looking to pay for a '97 (ish) rs4 v manual V a manual conversion ...

thanks for any input ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/
Share on other sites

Lo all ...

so, the questions is how much should i be looking to pay for a '97 (ish) rs4 v manual V a manual conversion ...

thanks for any input ...

97 Stageas (series 1) didnt come with the option of a manual transmission - straight auto only - so conversion is your only go there - check the manual conversion stickied thread for info on that.

However for a Series 2 (10/98 onwards) tiptronic Stagea your looking at mid 20 thou to 30 thou depending on years and kms and condition. A manual series 2 seems from auction prices to have about a $3-4000 premium on tiptronics - if you can find one that is.

:rant:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/#findComment-1241062
Share on other sites

Hi

Not trying to be picky but I am looking at exactly the same thing.... From the research I have done I thought that the Stagea RS4 'V' spec was an auto and the Stagea RS4 'S' Spec was the manual???

Brazen was nice enough to give me a ride in his stagea and I loved it.... Almost exactly what I want.... if it was manual it would have been my perfect car :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/#findComment-1241305
Share on other sites

Yep - as my post said - series 2 has a manual option, but not series 1... if dollars is a factor - then the cheapest way into a manual stag is definitely a series 1 with a manual conversion - coz you not only save the $3000 premium over the tiptronics that appears on manual series 2's, but about $5-$7000 on the difference between a series 1 and a 98 series 2 auto...

The real price difference is, for instance (car yard prices):

Series 2 RS Four S (manual) = $32,000 (or thereabouts)

Series 1 ($20,000) + conversion = $23,000

So yeah - even cheaper if you import yourself - saw on geoff risbeys emails this week a Sereis 1 Stag for $16,000 landed and complied!

But if no ultra-strict budget - then find a sereis 2 manual and go for it! I actually want tiptronic so was no drama for me - and if you've got moderate $ then i cant recommend the Neo6 series 2 enough - love mine!! :)

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/#findComment-1241966
Share on other sites

Lo all ...

possibly thinking of getting a stagea in the comming months, need a car with more boot space and passenger space, the r33 just cant cut it ......

You gunna swap the bits over from the GTST? :)

PS; PM me if you want to have a drive of ours.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/#findComment-1242602
Share on other sites

yeah, would be taking the gtst back to stock as much as poss for the sale .... i have pretty much all teh stock parts laying around ....

still making my mind up about one at teh moment ... trying to persuade the wife to get a 4x4, which i think she has made her mind up to get one now, if she gets one, then will have no need to swap mine for a more sensible shaped car ... woohoo

just that my wife is pretty short, and i have visions of her looking like a pea in a whistle driving a huge land cruiser or similar ...

(chuckles)

thanks for the offer SK, will let you know !

Baz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66718-rs4-v-prices/#findComment-1245711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...