Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my mates 34 vspec2 was in the workshop for 2 months waiting for a plate to get approved or somethin when he got his complied, dunno bout how much it cost him but u can find a place that does it here...

http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RA...AWPubSearch.asp

well, 34 plates were going to start out at like $5500, but seem to have dropped significantly. around $4000. So i think $4000-4500 would be a fair estimate.

my car has been at the compliance workshop for 6 months :P

R34 GTR's are a different world, a lot of recalls and parts are not cheap.

The one workshop I know that can comply them quote $10,000 including pads and tyres so the tyre kickers go away and they only comply good cars that buyers are willing to pay their fee.

Expect $7,000 to $8,000 plus parts for a proper job off a workshop that will be around more than 6 months.

Not need to tell me I am kidding either, R33s are $1,000 more so if it isnt in writing and not a test car price don't believe them as some people are under quoting to bring the customer in then hit them when they pick the car up, no payment no car.

  • 3 weeks later...

i got two prices first $8,000 hence the second price $4,400. and there are cheap ones out there imports 101 had one for about $50,000 it's not that much more than an R33 GTR when you realy look at it just save your ass off you will get there

50k sounds about right for a used r34 GTR with high km's...

You think so , i like to see one for that in australia , actualy i'll buy all you can get me for $50 k in aus .

The minimum you will pay for a none accident 99 mod at a jap auction is 3 million jpy and it will have over 70 k ks on the clock and a lot of rust .

Add to that 80-100,000 jpy for fob then add 10% import duty + $2000 aud to ship it and customs q/t then add to all that 10 % gst .

Thats already over $50 k then add to that $4000 to compy it + 1000 for cheap tyres + you will probably need brake pads and maybe rotors .

At the very minimum you will be looking at $60k + rego about $2.5- 3 k .

I forget to add 5% consumption tax to the auction price as well .

Who is doing it for $4,400.

I can get you a plate for $4 k + tyres + brakes if needed + any repairs you may need .

The 4 K includes h/lights as well + all the usual stuff but brakes are very expensive for the gtr.

I can get you a plate for $4 k + tyres + brakes if needed + any repairs you may need .

The 4 K includes  h/lights as well + all the usual stuff but brakes are very expensive for the gtr.

I can get a full set of GTR brake pads for $970 delivered, is it Zoran or Simon at that price.

I can get a full set of GTR brake pads for $970 delivered, is it Zoran or Simon at that price.

3 different places in Sydney that will do a plate for $4 k , actualy one will do it for less and that includes a blue and import approval as well , a long way from 6+ k they were asking about a year ago .

This week a dealer who had 3 in stock was trying to replace it and it was that expencive for a good car and it was going to cost $80,000 to land it.

I was in Japan last november - december and i went to lots of auctions looking for a r34 gtr , i know you will pay over 4 million jpy at auction for a good series 1 car with no accident history and reasonable ks .

I saw a nur m-spec and they wanted 7.8 million jpy .

I ended up buying a 2001 m-spec .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...