Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

top stuff greg. i agree with ya completely. but the only reason i would consider full comp is in the event of theft. what happens if the car is never recovered ? or is recovered but burnt to crisp. yes, 3rd party theft and fire sounds good. but remember the payout amount is 5000 minus excess. sooo the max u can get bak is 4200.

any car worth under 10k is not worth full comp. 16k, yeh i would say so.

Yeah i agree with Greg... that's really how i saw it. I'm with Just Cars. they were the only ones who would insure me. THey quoted me $3500 for full comp! BUT $750 3RD party fire and theft. and i'd pay 800 excess in even of fire or theft and get $5000 back = $4200. i tried everyone and NO ONE woudl insure me.(except just cars)

  • 2 weeks later...
Checked my insurance papers today, and its infact $699 3rd party, and $849 for fire and theft..

$1399 excess....

And i get if the car is written off and im not at fault i get $3000 back..  

Bonus is im allowed unlimited mod's as long as they're legal!

Which isnt to bad.

And yes, the insurance company really didn't care if it was turbo or non turbo... the fact that i was 16 is what they cared about.

Dayne

If the car is written off and your not at fault you get the market value of the car back. (If it's not your fault they just claim it on the other persons insurance).

But yeah, I'm running a 1989 Nissan Silvia CA18DET turbo, third party property fire and theft, auto, 19 years old etc etc, $550 a year.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...