Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I had the TE37 17 x 9 wheels on my GTR, the front is 245/40 and rear is 255/40. Today I went to bob jane to ask about new tyres, they said I can put 235 at the front and 255 and the rear. Just want to know is that safe? I'm not driving the GTR very often, coz I got a daily drive car. But I just want to know the difference between the F:235 R:255 and F:245 R:255. Anyone can help?

Also wanna ask the price with these tyres? THx!!!!

Everything I've read says that you need to have EXACTLY the same rolling radius at all 4 corners, else your ATESSA system will have a caniption fit, so that means IDENTICAL rims and tyres.

And for the sake of 10mm extra why bother? just go 245 all round.

No! No! No! The ATTESSA doesn't care about the WIDTH.

The DIAMETER should be the same, but that is NOT the same as width. So you can have 225/45/17's on the front and 255/40/17's on the rear. The rolling circumference will be the same.

:(

PS; if you had done a search you would have found plenty of posts on why this is the case.

what about the width of the WHEEL?

I'd always understood that the GTR should have equal width (and diameter) wheels and tyres front to rear? That would be pretty cool if you can just use different sized wheels/tyres.

what about the width of the WHEEL?

I'd always understood that the GTR should have equal width (and diameter) wheels and tyres front to rear? That would be pretty cool if you can just use different sized wheels/tyres.

I have driven a GTR over 200k's with the space saver spare on the front, the ATTESSA didn't even know. The torque split looked quite normal to me, I even palyed with the torque splt controller, just for fun.:cheers:

No, only tyre circumference needs to be the same as the ATTESA works on front to back wheel speed differences. So you can have those 12" wide deep dish wheels on the back, Richard, so long as the tyre circumference is the same. :cheers:

No!  No!  No!  The ATTESSA doesn't care about the WIDTH.

The DIAMETER should be the same, but that is NOT the same as width.  So you can have 225/45/17's on the front and 255/40/17's on the rear.  The rolling circumference will be the same.

:)

PS; if you had done a search you would have found plenty of posts on why this is the case.

So what that means is I still can get 255/40/17's at the rear with 235/40/17's at the front? Just have to get the width at the same size? is that what u mean?

So what that means is I still can get 255/40/17's at the rear with 235/40/17's at the front? Just have to get the width at the same size? is that what u mean?

Ah no! Perhaps a quick explanation of tyre sizes might help

235 = 235 mm wide

255 = 255 mm wide

40 = 40% of the width (that's the measurement from the outside of the tyre to the rim)

17 = 17 inches, the rim diameter

So 235 X 40% = 94 mm

And 255 X 40% = 102 mm

So they are NOT the same circumference.

If you want 255/40 on the rear (102mm) then you need 235/45 on the front (105mm). Check the alternatives with the tyre shop that you are going to buy your tyres from, they have equivalency charts (so their customers can keep their speedos accurate).:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...