Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im just watchin some drift vids, which is the first time ive seen the new capa ute drifting...

was just wondering what others think of this ute?

personally i dont think it belongs on a drift track. just the same as skylines and silvias dont belong in v8 supercars or the brute ute series. and being anti holden/ford, i just hate the thing all together.

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67277-capa-drift-ute-hate-it-or-rate-it/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i just watched speedweek.... seriously, that ute needs to be removed. what about the driver... "why a holden ute in amongst these japanese cars?" "this is australia, why not have an australian car, gotta show em how its done!"

id like to see him up against the some of the d1 drivers, kazuma makes more smoke with his GTRS powered s15.

cheers

Linton

yeah exactly, the stupid commentators were talking it up so much sayin how its the most powerful drift car in australia. Really, who cares?? we all know power figures are far from the name of the game in drift. You could tell the commentators had little idea bout what was going on either. One of them was a total noob, the other had a small idea of what was going on. The driver of the ute pissed me off too, i totally agree with Linton. It was just typical bogan aussies and holden trying to ooze there way into everything to get in some promotion and try and make everyone think that aussie cars can do anything better than what japanese cars can do, which is utter bullshit.

Hi Guys,

I have been at every event that the CAPA Drift Ute has entered.

The driver of the car is new to drifting, and is improving each round he enters. I think it is great for the sport that new and different cars are competing. I do not think it should be limited to Japanese cars.

Robbie Bolger is building a range of drift cars and is recruiting drivers who compete in Full Lock events that have shown talent, i am sure none of you would say no if he offered you a fully sponsored purpose built car with a salary.

He has put a lot of time, effort and money into his ute, and he is continually slagged off on internet forums. Why? Because he has an australian car.

He is a great guy to deal with and has definitely bought a lot more attention to the sport to prove that Drifting is not just for Japanese cars.

Thanks,

-Liam.

Hi guys,

I was one of the commentators on Speedweek. Not sure if i was the Noob or the guy who knew a little.

The issue was, given the time we had we couldn't do too much of the technical stuff or gone into too much detail, or do a loud Japanese style call drift call, given the audience would have no idea what we were talking about, and the footage was edited down so far to fit the time frame. As it was we went over and it was chopped down heaps.

The CAPA ute, as I said on the telecast, is a horsepower machine only and was not match for Mijoc or Vhaoumis because they had the skill and set up. As you would all know, too many people mistake burnouts for drifting.

Bolger is doing a top job and as he gets the hang of it he will improve.

Jeff Boulous

Manager, Oran Park

I also respond to Hey You. I understand the drift ute aint exactly drift street cred, but as long as it is rear wheel drive and safe, who cares. For the record, I have never met a kilowatt I didn't like.

And drifting is a regulated and sanctioned form of motorsport, with proper liability insurance, officials and other stuff that makes it easy to compete and safe for anyone who does so.

If you have seen my Friday night off street drift events at Driftland, you'll know the car only needs to comply with basic safety guidelines. Other than that it can be a P.O.S.

JB

Theres a VN commodore up in QLD that regularly attends drift meets and is right up there and even better than some of the import drifters. It's amazing watching him.

He's even got sponsorship now (wrecked the look of the car), but he does do very well.

The Ute does lack in angle mid drift but man it has some power

But hey if it attracts bogans to the sport and that in turn will make drifting bigger than it is now then i am all for it

However I do echo the sentiment I heard in the crowd at Wakefield... " There is more ego’s (referring to drifters) here than at a v8 supercars round" which I don’t particularly like

I think it is fine to have different makes in motorsport... it makes things more interesting... instead of saying the holden ute should not be in drift, we should saying - why are only holden and ford in V8 supercars.... Toyota and Nissan have V8's, Mitsu and Mazda wanted to get into it as well. Unless V8 supercars change, I predict they will be dead in 5 - 7 years (if they can keep the current (read - no longer in production) engine configuration going for that long....)

There is a lot of bitching happening on the internet about this.

"its embarrasing"

"its sh1t"

"everyone is crap"

While you are on the internet bagging it, the drivers are out there practicing, and their talent is getting better and better. More drivers are securing sponsorship with major companies.

If you are basing your opinion of Australia's drifting talent on the ProClass Drift segment that was shown on TV, you have to remember that the drivers were given VERY minimal time to practice/qualify.

Hopefully some of you guys could actually attend an event, and maybe even enter to appreciate how difficult it is, and how much skill some of Australia's drivers actually have.

:werd:

Just for the record,i think,the australian drift scene would be much better if we all got behind it instead of bagging it,and especially it's drivers.Respect their skiil and commitment.

There are pontiac gto's in d1 usa mixing it up with the best jap cars,australia should be no different.

The only reason that japan doesnt have any cars like ours are because they dont have holden/gm in their country.And im sure given the chance some1 would take the opportunity to drift one in d1 japan.

i dont rate the pontiac gto either. i think drifting should be for jap cars only. the bogans have the v8 supercars, brute utes and summernats.

how great would it be if we got all the b'n's rigs out there into drifting....

with holdens and fords getting into drift, once again our beloved jap cars will be put down by the majority as being "crappy 2 stoke 2 litre shitboxes"

i enjoy going to drift comps and days and watchin my favourite cars doing their thing. just the same as bogans go to bathurst. if i wanted to see holdens and fords attempting to drift, id sit at my local maccas and watch all the idiots in my town. why should i make the effort to drive 3hrs to see holdens and fords and have bogans bagging out the jap cars.

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...