Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR.....questions.

PSI_GTSII
 Share

Recommended Posts

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

Well like everyman and his dog I am in the process of picking up an R32 GTR from Japan atm. (Thru Prestige)

Anywho...I probably should have asked these questions before laying down the readies but...

1. I believe removal of a fuse is all thats required for 2WD / 4WD, can this be rigged up to an In Cab switch?

2. If so generally how strong is the rear diff, at handling this sorta stuff.

3. What is the Maximum performance (HP @ Wheels) I can expect with Factory comp, Turbos, injectors & IC...and which is the weakest link?

4. What would be required for 400-450HP @ wheels?

5. And what are the most common problems assc with the GTR mechanically.

Any help appriciated as I am sure these questions are asked all the time :rofl:

Cheers

Lindsay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67719-r32-gtrquestions/
Share on other sites
PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1. Yes

2. Bomb-proof

3. 300hp (give or take engine healthiness and if you run a safe boost) Big cash not required

4. Turbos, clutch, injectors, exhaust (turbo back), remap or aftermarket computer

5. Clutch, clutch, clutch!

1. Excellent

2. Great

3. Hmm...pretty average..will have to work on that!

4. Not to bad...would High flowed standard turbos do the trick?

5. Ah..ha...well I guess its better than a Gearbox :P

Thx mate :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67719-r32-gtrquestions/#findComment-1257105
Share on other sites
Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

The standard drive on the crank isnt wide enough to engage the standard oil pump properly.... which would have to be one of the biggest reasons so many early RB26s die. Its an engine out job as the collar has to be machined onto the crank, upgrade oil pump to N1 and then you will be ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67719-r32-gtrquestions/#findComment-1257119
Share on other sites
Zenith Contributor

Zenith

Posted
Posted

1. Yes a switch can be attched to the fuse to make it 2WD/4WD. Check out Autospeed.com.au there is a good article on there regarding the 4WD set up where he puts a dial to adjust the amount of torque transfer in differnt conditions.

2. Rear diffs are pretty hardcore, unless your being stupid with it, you should be right.

3. You'll get 300-320hp from a pretty standard (engine wise) Gtr, the turbos are only good for 1bar and usally the rear wheel breaks off over that, esp in 15yr old cars, so get rid of them asap. Usally the standard clutch and oil pump are pretty crap so get rid of them. The standard oil pump flows around 23lts at 6000rpm, a Hks or N1 oil pump will flow closer to 50ltrs at 6000rpm. So upgrade this.

4. For 400-450whp first thing i would suggest here is an engine rebuild. Although standard RB26's have been known to handle more, you are not dealing with a brand new engine here and getting more power out of an older engine you are starting to push its boundaries. But if it anit broke then dont fix it, so go ahead and mod it untill it dies. how long it will last is anyone's guess.

After that your looking at more general stuff, so upgrading exhaust, dumps, filters, then move on to bit more technical things. Turbo's, either n1 ball bearing's or 2530's get the 2530's these are awsome turbos and can handle good amounts of boost. Pushing over 400whp every thing starts to max out fuel system wise. The injectors are 444cc and can only flow around 530hp at the engine. (theres an equation somewhere on here that will tell you that.) Factor in about 25% loss to the wheels that brings you up with 400hp at the wheels before they max out.So upgrade to some 600-700cc ones.

Afm's will also max out at 400whp, so upgrade them too either Z32's with 80mm inlets i think or Rb25 ones which are only 72mm i think, still an upgrade but might as well go all out and get Z32 ones. The intercooler can flow enough air for over 400whp, but i have seen allot of people change tham around that mark. From my research the standard fuel pump is usally pretty good for this amount of power and im really not sure when a new one is needed. If you want bigger get a bosch 044 i think they are good for like 325 LHP @ 50 PSI, (correct me if im wrong please)

Next up grade would probally be a Power Fc, great Ecu's and plug into the standard harness, propper tunning of all this power should put you easily into the 400-500whp mark depending on boost settings.(get and adjustable boost controller for this, great fun)

5. Most common problem, probally Hicas, but thats with all skylines. For some reason who ever developed this system decided to put every fault to relay back to the hicas light. And when the system does go foul, travelling over 100km p/h can be scary. Quick fix, pull the 4pin plug out of the hicas computer under the parcel shelf. Long/proper/expensive fix, track down an ecu consult, plug it in and let it tell you all the problems and then fix them.

So once all that is done you should have a nice car with good power. Dont expect to have much money left though unless you have lots of it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67719-r32-gtrquestions/#findComment-1257390
Share on other sites
Boosting Collaborator

Boosting

Posted
Posted

1. Pull the fuse for lots of wheels spining fun

2. Have not broken my diff yet and i like to do burn outs and rev limiter launchs,, HEHEEHE

3. Mine made 331hp on 14psi with 4" zorst nothing else

4. N1's hks 2530 or 2540's with proper support system ie fuel comp yadda yadda

5. CLUTCH did i say CLutch amd now have a prob with a valve guide in the engine ticking its head off but i have a replacement head of a 33 GTR.

Have fun and remember simple things like oil changes keep the thing alive, you would be best to change everything as soon as u get it, gearbox oils diff oils brake fluid you gewt the idea better to be safe then sorry and spark plugs cause of alot power lose to if they are ****ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67719-r32-gtrquestions/#findComment-1257408
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...