Jump to content
SAU Community

crash on eastern freeway

_turtle_

By _turtle_,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
Posted

hey guys just got back home, driving on the eastern freeway from the springvale rd entrance going towards the city there was a crash. near the bends where the entrance starts, from what i could see it was a R33 skyline, hope its not anyone here and dat there were no serious injuries.

must've lost it in the wet or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6781-crash-on-eastern-freeway/
Share on other sites
MarkZ Explorer

MarkZ

Posted
Posted

I'm now commuting on the Eastern Freeway daily, and I've seen a new smashed car (nothing too serious) EVERY day since mid last week!!! That's about 7 smashed cars.

There was also what looked to be an offset head-on at the intersection of Springvale Rd and Burwood Hwy in peak hour yesterday. The front end of a red VT was caved in and the ambos were attending.... don't think it was so bad though, but the scene was quite crowded with emegency vehicles.

mark

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Prolly that left turn from springvale into burwood hwy going towards knox... people don't watch...kain through and either get collected by thru traffic or those turning right.

Even I'll admit I've almost done it a few times while not looking properly, but not for a few years.

Speaking of that intersection, I saw a cool little drag there on sunday night coming back home.. One guy in an old Valiant ute, one guy in a newish S or SS Ute, and one VP common-dore (5L or so). All deliberately got into separate lanes and started revving. The crappy val ute did pretty well, and kept nearly up with the SS(?) for most of the way...VN got its ass kicked not surprisingly.

Pity I'm only 2 weeks away from my skyline and could'a kicked em all :(

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

no u wouldnt cause being a responsible skyline driver u wouldnt partake in such activity... :(

save it for the strip or u'll end up like the guy whos car this thread was created about

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

speaking on the topic of merging lanes, has anyone tried going onto the eastern freeway from the bulleen rd entrance going towards springvale rd?? theres these gay sets of traffic lights there, and they turn green for like 1 sec!!!! then go red again, i reckon they're ridiculous. its 2 lanes and merges into 1 and then onto the freeway, u gotta hammer it down to get to 100 so that u can merge safely.

so dumb.

Shiro Enthusiast

Shiro

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by _turtle_

speaking on the topic of merging lanes, has anyone tried going onto the eastern freeway from the bulleen rd entrance going towards springvale rd?? theres these gay sets of traffic lights there, and they turn green for like 1 sec!!!!  then go red again, i reckon they're ridiculous.  its 2 lanes and merges into 1 and then onto the freeway, u gotta hammer it down to get to 100 so that u can merge safely.  

so dumb.

If you go from Downtown towards Springvale Rd exit on peak hours, then you would know that the GAY LIGHTS make a whole lot of difference. It eases the traffic and reduces the jam by a mile!

And I don't think you have to rev really hard to get into 100 zone, 'coz in peak hours you're not gonna reach that speed anyway... Besides, I hardly find myself having to rev that hard to merge safely...

  • 2 weeks later...
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by _turtle_

theres these gay sets of traffic lights there, and they turn green for like 1 sec!!!!  then go red again, i reckon they're ridiculous.  its 2 lanes and merges into 1 and then onto the freeway, u gotta hammer it down to get to 100 so that u can merge safely.  

so dumb.

Lol if you've ever noticed those lights let 2 cars in at a time, so you're always goin into the freeway in pairs... and the lights... well me n most of my mates line up at the lights to test our reaction times and to see who can get the the merging point faster, then the person who's behind lets the other in front and we both merge happily (we don't play chicken)...

its the maddest set of lights ever... hours (actually 1 minute) of fun...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...