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I'll try ACL i didnt know they did bearings... I usually go to CBC or similar. I'll have to see if I can get that leverage while the hub is on the vehicle. It is awkward!! :D

Thanks again..have you done this Duncan? Gtr would be different setup due to the driveshafts there!!

PS My Jap is not up to scratch _ I'll get an older guy at work I know to translate if needed :)

yeah GTR is different but we did all 4 last weekend. From the pic the only difference is that the thread is connected directly to the hub while in the GTR it is the end of the driveshafts and splines hold it in place in the hub instead.

On jack stands, wheel off, assistant with foot hard on brakes. big socket, strong breaker bar and some sort of extension, we used about 1m of galvinised pipe.....swing on it, off she pops.

Or just take it to a wokshop lol

No sorry we were just taking the drive shafts out for reco cv joints, as mentioned earlier it is unusual for skyline wheel bearings to go.

I did wear our rears on my GTST a few years back but the GTR seems fine.

Just get the bearing out and take it along somewhere to be matched. ACL, CBC like you said are the main Aus manufacturer.

ANyone know the part no. ??

I rang up CBC they wanted $149 + GST for one kit (bearing and seal). The kit was NJ134KIT. Nissan wanted $76 but I don't know if that was with the seal.

Maybe I'll just pull it apart tonight and get the bearing matched up...

ANyone know the exact part number and cheap source. I thought I would be abloe to get it for under 50...

Ok I nearly have the hub off though I don't know whether I need a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get this apart. See pics below!!

lowercont5dv.jpg

Also below is actually the bearing and seal for the steering axis..

Do you think this seal is hard to replace - anyone done it...

Do you have to pop the bearings out? There is a fair bit of movement in this beaing is this normal. I.e. the inner race can be pushed in and out a bit (ome play), is this normal...there is a lot of grease around there..

mass3es.jpg

Another pic of the situation

25ti.jpg

Bit late, but with the lower balljoint, I'd have used a balljoint seperator - just a big metal fork basically (About $30, depending where you get one from), and you beat the crap out of it with a hammer - often have to hit quite hard. Also helps if you bash the part of the hub where the balljoint sticks through (NOT THE ACTUAL BALLJOINT) as the shock can help break the taper fit.

Ended up getting it out. Took the lower control arm and the hub off then with big copper hammer big hit on top of threaded bit poking through. Hitting the side of it to release taper didn' t help.

Got the old bearing out now putting the new one in tomorrow mornign

PS you need a few tools to do this. Drifts, bearing pullers etc.

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