Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto transmission questions

OPASEN
 Share

Recommended Posts

OPASEN Enthusiast

OPASEN

Posted
Posted

To all you autos out there I have a question.

I dont know if this is normal maybe you can tell me.

In snow mode gear changes are smooth and acceleration is decresed to aid in traction.

In normal mode there is more power but the gear changes are rougher. eg 1st to 2nd is abit clunkyer.

In power mode the gear change is severe with heaps more power occasionaly causeing it to chirp.

My guess is that it is trying to simulate a manual slaming into second especialy when on boost.

I have discussed this with my mechanic and he asures me that ists all normal. I dont know wether to belive him or not. I have already had to change the box thanks to the pevious owner never changeing the transmission fluid. This is now in a box that has done 40k kms. I asked if the bands needed tightening. I was told no..... Am I getting ****ed around or is all this just normal.

P.s can these boxes handle being driven like a manual. I have heaps of mates saying I should drive it that way but I dont want to **** anything up. I dont feel like haveing to buy another gearbox....

Any help is good help thanx guys......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67891-auto-transmission-questions/
Share on other sites
Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

in snow mode the first gear is disengaged.

when my auto changes gears you can not feel the change unless im flogging it.

but even then it would be very rare that i feel the change other than the kick back from power into 2nd.

i drive my auto like a manual and have for the last 25000kms.

when i drive it like a manual (change gears myself) mine most of the time just fishes into 2nd.

but after all i put mine through my gear changes are soft.

maybe in your replacement box someone has installed a shift kit which would make changes rougher and faster.

power mode maxes out rev range but still shouldnt be rough.

id be checking to see if valve body has been modified.

my 2cents worth :P

slideways926 Apprentice

slideways926

Posted
Posted

As slide said, someone may have put a shift kit in your replacement box that you dont know about. I had the auto (which has since been changed to manual cos thats what I prefer), and I used to drive it like a manual with no problems at all.

I have seen some autos drive a bit funny if they are low on fluid, they sort of wind up and then smack into gear all of a sudden.... make sure it has enough in it. If all else fails, drive it like a manual and if it breaks, I still have my auto box in the shed for sale... :(

OPASEN Enthusiast

OPASEN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanx man but given that the box was just replased it should still have all the oil in it. the old box used to whine so loud half of newcastle could hear it. this new one is quiet but still abit funny. to be quite honest i really hope it doesnt break it cost me $1800 for the last one.

Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

there is a diagnostic mode that you can run for your automatic transmission, is you do a search you should find the procedure on how to do it .. that will tell you if everything is running ok..

Another thing to do is see if there is another member with an auto that lives close to you and see if you can get a drive to see if its any different..

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

I've heard of auto beeing picked up (second hand) for as little as $200 - most wreckers just can't get rid of them.

Check out the Group buy section to see if anyone in your area has purchased and installed a shift kit, that will give you a good idea of what quick shifts should be like. The nissan box is a bit quicker than a holden or ford slush box, but your description sound a bit harsh for a standard box.

Personally I like the auto (after the shift kit was installed), catch up with some other autos and ask for a ride to compare yours and theirs.

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

my r32 gtst is stock as appart from krappy k&n filter n cat-back exhaust runnin 10psi AUTO

yes AUTO, i been floggin heaps of manuals eg. r32gtst with gauges allover it got flogged by my stock looking machine , as 4 manual, sorry i havent got time 2 change gears,im more into hanging on 2 the wheel n keeping the car str8 as i boost thru gears

haha i love my auto!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...