Jump to content
SAU Community

FMIC Kits

xKx_31

By xKx_31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

craz0 Proficient

craz0

Posted
Posted

I got a Greedy intercooler about a couple of weeks ago from nengun, I got the Greedy that uses the standard returns.

I have nothing to compare it against the Skyline is my first turbo car I fitted it my self all is good, had to do some cutting to the front bar but all fitted well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68043-fmic-kits/page/2/#findComment-1266922
Share on other sites
pinoi_boi_r33 Community Regular

pinoi_boi_r33

Posted
Posted

hey mate, i have purchased apexi gt spec piping for my r33 gtst. A friend has the same piping and he said it fits up well with the copy hybrids. I've bought a copy hybrid off a guy on these forums, rmahnovetsky (spelling) it should be here on tuesday. The reason i didn't get a kit was for basically 2 reasons:

a) a lot use the standard returns, (as above) i didn't want this (personal pref)

B) the ones that go over the radiator, most of them require the fan blade to be shaved at the ends. This was a definate no no for me.

the apex pipes do go over the radiator but coz there apex and are fully sik jap brand they don't need the fan shaved at all. :D also the good thing about the apex pipes is that they also include the turbo hot pipe, where most kits use the standard pipe off the turbo 90 elbow thingy.

all up it has cost so far:

piping 396.1 (2nd hand off ebay)

cooler 290 (forums)

and i will need 2*3inch hose and 4 clamps for the hose, and brakets etc. say 100 bux, which it shouldn't b but round it up.

so it cost around abouts 800, i will do the labour myself with the help of my girlfriend :D

I could have gone to an exhaust shop and got it done for cheap, but most of them will want to do it in mild steel, which they think is fine but i'm not so sure. I got quoted 420 to copy my piping in mild steel or 365 for 5 kits of em. I was thinking of starting a GB, coz its better qual piping than most crap out there. But thought i don't think ppl would b interested coz its mild steel. And what if the place stuff's it up a little, i have to pay them for what they do, but i'd have to pay back the people of the GB since they didn't get what they paid for. Catch 22.

i will write a diy with heaps of pix when i actually do it. So keep a look out in the next few weeks in the diy section.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68043-fmic-kits/page/2/#findComment-1267093
Share on other sites
locosam Contributor

locosam

Posted
Posted

Ok, just an update.

I got my cooler fitted by a mechanic because i dont have the time (actually its more like i dont have the talent heh) to do it myself.

Anyway, i asked him which kit he prefers, hybrid or greddy. He says the greddy is easier to install.

Performance of the cores were similar, but the greddy ones you have to do less work.

For one, you dont have to cut the radiator fan, it clears it fine. He also was pointing to a reducer from the throttle body to the pipe and said this part was better. Other than that, i wouldnt know what else makes it easier to fit.

So from what i gather, if youre looking for pure performance/price, then hybrid or hybrid copy is the way to go.

If you want something easier to fit, the get one of the jap ones

If both are same price, then i would get jap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68043-fmic-kits/page/2/#findComment-1275482
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
boost4130 Contributor

boost4130

Posted
Posted
i've got a hybrid cooler 600x300x75 and i've seen some kits being sold for them (suiting r33)  

i was wondering how they fit with the stanard front bar? any help is appreciated

Hey there,

i recentley installed my cooler the same size as yours (Hybrid copy), i have a series 1 R33 with the stock front bar. Unfortunatley these kits do require a bit of work. Not really that hard just time consumeing, i had to grind out a few centremeters of plastic from the inside of my front bar to get the cooler sitting in there nicely. i used an angle grinder and file to finish it off, looks ok. U might want to allocte a few hours just for this task to get it right. Then there's the hole u have to cut in the side of your car for the pipe that leads in2 your tb. plus i made my own brackets...I've heard u r supposed to take the front bar off 4 the install, i didn't and didn't run in2 any problems. Hope this helps.

P.S: still waiting for silcon reducers to turn up in the mail b4 i can test drive the car but when i do im hoping there is a noticeable power increase for all my effort. I intercooled my last car and power increase was pretty damn decent, hoping these 33's r the same :rolleyes: thoughts/results ne1 else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68043-fmic-kits/page/2/#findComment-1330934
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...