Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sk, is the one with the filter legal, you know like venting to atmo and also which one would be better the one with the filter or without. im thinkin with for the extra airflow??

im noticing oil stains on the silicone sleeve on the ic piping.

panikin - lookin forward to the pics and diy.

Hey all, I am getting my intercooler and a knock off Greddy catch can. I am getting ready for the install and then i realized I have no idea where the piping for the catch can goes. I have searched around the forums for a bit, but this seems to be one with a lot of knowledge.

btw great explanation on how a catch can pulls the oil from the air. I had a very long and uneducated discussion with a friens on them. (neither were correct)

Thanx for the help

Here is one I prepared earlier, that I found by using the search button....

===================================================

My suggestions for plumbing up a catch can. Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right

Pretty much the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

rb25detOpentoAtmosphere.jpg

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

rb25det50PlumbBack.jpg

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

rb25det100PlumbBack.jpg

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

PS, the PCV valve on RB25's is screwed into the RHS cam cover. For the plumback options (50% and 100%) you would need to move the PCV valve so it is between the catch can and the plenum.

For RB20's the PCV valve is screwed into the plenum and so it doesn't need to be moved.

Hope that helps:cheers:

when you see most peoples catch can setups they dont normally alter the PCV valve and conecting hose, so when not under boost they would still be sucking oily air into the plenum as the PCV valve is open, true?

in the 100% plumb back option, could you simplify things and block off both ends of the PCV connecting hose? that way you would just have the one hose to the catch can and one return hose to the turbo inlet. i ask this because in the atmo option the PVC and its conecting hoses are completely blocked off and it stil works fine.

This is the style I use' date=' just take the filter off the top and fill 'er up. The hole looks small in the photo but is big enough to fit a stocking in and then, one by one, poke in the stainless steel wool. I don't usually remove it, I simply fill it up with 50/50 kero and metho, slosh around and rince with water.

[img']http://www.micksmetalcraft.com/surgeTanks/show071.jpg[/img]

QUOTE]

SK - What is the diameter of the filter hole?

Ive been checking these CC's out(below) from GCG - bit pricey at $180 delivered COD.

-1000ml

-baffled(unremovable)

oil_air%20_1_.JPG

Also been checkin these ones out(below) for $90 delivered - bit smaller but half the price!

-800ml

-unbaffled

catchtank.jpg

Which would be better then? :confused:

Thats what Im thinking. And save myself 90 bucks!

The only real difference is the size by 200ml.

Am curious though- how much steel wool should you stuff in? Does it have to sit on the bottom of the catch can?

Has any one got any pics of the inside of a catch can?

So how do you do it?

Do you stuff the foot of the stocking in, leaving the ankle bit hangin out and then fill it with steel wool and tie off the end? Does that sound right?

:cheers:

You got it, and fill 'er right up to the filter:cheers:

Here is one I prepared earlier, that I found by using the search button....

===================================================

My suggestions for plumbing up a catch can.  Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right

Pretty much the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices  ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

rb25detOpentoAtmosphere.jpg  

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe.  The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off.  You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like.  Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

Thnx SK :cheers:

Im goin to go the open to atmo method.

I cant really see from your pic properly. the 2 connection hoses from the catch can look like they are both going to the same pipe on the rocker cover? Is that right? If so, How do you connect the 2 hoses? And how do you block off the other 3 areas that you outlined?

thnx.

Thnx SK :cheers:

Im goin to go the open to atmo method.

I cant really see from your pic properly. the 2 connection hoses from the catch can look like they are both going to the same pipe on the rocker cover? Is that right? If so, How do you connect the 2 hoses? And how do you block off the other 3 areas that you outlined?

thnx.

That's one hose from the LHS cam cover to the can (that's why the label says "connection hose" not "connection hoses"), I couldn't be bothered colouring it in.

As for blocking off, Clark rubber has a slection of bungs, and I use the standard clamps. A bolt of the right diameter and thread is the go for replacing the PVC valve.

:(

What do you do with the second opening on the catch can if connecting only one hose?

Ummm - PCV valve??  Yes -  my cats breath smells like cats food!! I am stoopid.

Sorry for the lame questions.

:rofl:

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation

PCV Valve = a one way valve that allows the crankcase to breath into the plenum when not on boost. On boost the valve closes, otherwise the boost pressure would escape from the plenum and go into the crankcase.

If you have a catch can with 2 inlets, then it would be wise to plumb the two cam covers to the catch can, one hose from each. If you only want to run one hose then you can buy a neat bung from Clark rubber to block off the other one.

Hope that helps:cheers:

I hooked up a catch can to the pcv side and plumbed it back in then put a small k&n filter on the rocker side to vent straight to atmo but found that it sucked air in, anyone had this happen to them, thinking it may be the pcv being plumbed back into the system any thoughts

I think people should be aware that steel wool is not the same thing as a stainless steel scourer that you scrub your pots and pans with.  It is the latter that you should be using I believe.  You fill the can up completely.

So which one are we suppose to use again?

very fine stainless steel wool?

or

stainless scourers we use to scrup out pots and pans?

does anyone have a fitted catch tank to a RB26DETT ? I am about to drive out to GCG and buy one, and many thanks to SK I have the pic of the RB25.... however still a little confused!

call it my small brain trying to take in toooo much info!

so if someone can post what to block for the RB26 that would be sweet! oh and I am after the 0% plumback! I am sick of oil in my FMIC!!!

thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...