Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am still getting used to my new Stagea. Can anyone say what the differences in the power and snow buttons do, which is best for fast take off, what holds the gears longer...

Also I am trying to find out what the botton to the left of steering wheel, the one that shows a small pic of 4 wheels and a S in the middle. What does it do? Does it change the power raito from front and back wheels eg: 50/50 to 30/70...... What is the standard raito???

-I just found the auto headlight setting, cool the parkers and head lights come on automaticly when it gets dark, most stagea owners probaberly already know this.

Hey, I have a S2 skyline and in mine the power button makes the auto transmission change the gears later in the rev range and the snow button means the car starts in second gear so the wheels won't spin in snow (or rain).

Not sure about the rest though...must be a 4wd thing I guess.

Hi emanuelt, welcome to the exclusive Stagea owners club.

"Power" = holds gears higher in the rpm range and kicks down with less stomping on the accelerator.

"Snow" = doesn't use first gear

"4WD" = more initial even spread of torque over the 4 wheels. The ATESSA ECU still takes effect when the lateral and longitudinal G sensors tell it to ie; it's not like a centre diff lock.

We use "snow", "power" and "4wd" on the 4wd dyno as it seems to give the least amount of torque change between the front and rear wheels. So the Stagea doesn't move around on the rollers so much.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

those 4 positions, plus dont forget the inner dial on the headlight stick which switches on the nifty yellow foglights ... which nicely matches my car colour haha :rofl:

Hey SK or anyone else re the 4wd ratio (if it is that) button - heres another Question - when I push that button in - on the dash a little symbol the same as it lights up, BUT next to that is another light symbol that actually says "4WD" but Ive never had it come on when driving (only when they all come on at startup when turning the key). So is the button with the symbol of the Diff and the letter S just to increase the front drive ratio WHEN the attessa system does choose to engage the front, and when it one day does engage (still yet to loose traction) the 4WD symbol will also light up??? Guess I'll just have to go and loose traction next time it rains and see what happens....

hmmm mind boggling :bonk:

The 4WD dash light is a warning light, so if something is wrong it will come on or flash. It'll come on while your in 2wd mode too.

I stumbled across some info on the 4wd switch a while ago. Apparently when pressed it gives a 50/50 split up to 20km/h then after that it gives a constant 30/70 split unless the fronts need more, then it'll give upto 50/50 split.

J

Hmmmm.... I'm already itching to get into my new Stag, now I find out about all these extra gadgets! Auto headlights... does that mean the headlights automatically turn off when you turn off the car? Or is it just the light sensitive system?

BTW: All that stands between me and the Stag is disposing of my Liberty wagon... so if anyone knows someone after a Subie for about $13K I've got just what they're after...

lights will automatically go off when the ignition is killed and the drivers door is opened. I have a turbo timer on my RS$ model, which confuses it. I turn the car off get out of the car and walk away. Head lights stay on becasue the ignition is still held on when i get out of the car and close the door. Car thinks driver is still sitting in the drivers seat waiting. If I walk back to the car and open the door to turn the lights off manually they then turn off as soon as the door is opened, it thinks the driver is getting out. So yes lights will turn off with the ignition being turned off, but only when drivers door opens after that condition is met. For information, the light receptor for the Auto lights is in front of the driver on top of the dash, right down by the base of the windscreen. make sure you don't have it covered or obscured by anything (like stupid park and display ticket stubs), and if you have to clean that area use a soft clean cloth so not to damage the sensor.

There is also a further headlight arrangement option i have heard of on Stageas, ut's been discussed here, that is the auto dimming headlight system. I don't have this on my ride, but it dimms the lights apparently automatically for on coming cars or something similar, this feature is NOT what we are talking about when we talk of automatic setting for headlights. It can be hardcase in Auckland traffic sometimes travelling on the motorway, you can often see which cars have auto lights always left in that mode. As you drive under bridges, especially in slow moving traffic (must be a certain darkness detecting delay incorporated before they turn on) you can see headlights fire up, then as they drive back into the sunshine, go off again about 10 metres later :rofl:

  • 5 years later...

I've got a S1 RS4 which tends to bog down when changing gear to D from N or R.

Every now and then, when I try to accelerate off the line, revs bounce around 1-1.5k and sometimes a popping sound can be heard.

This does not occur when mode button is switched to power.

Can anyone shed some light on what the underlying problem may be?

i'm guessing power button is limited to the s1's?

my s2 doesn't have it but it does have the tiptronic.

next question, when the titronic is on does it speed up shifts despite it being in d or being shifted with the stick instead of buttons?

never experimented with it but always wandered if it sharpens up shifts or not...

  • 1 year later...

Thought i'd post up this info i found in the manual that nobody else has noted yet. ps. i cant read japanese but guessing;

SNOW button gear modes;

D: 2nd gear / 4th gear

3: 2nd gear / 3rd gear

2: 2nd gear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...