Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys/gals

i don't know a lot about the skyline motors and since i have just converted my S13 silvia to rb20det, i just had a few questions to ask...

what is the stock turbo on a silver top rb20det?

is it easier (or much less) to high flow a R33 turbo or just buy a second hand 2530 turbo?

is there a lot to be gained by high flowing the stock turbo's? i did a search but it came up with a lot of side tracked posts.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68395-rb20det-high-flow-upgrade-or-newy/
Share on other sites

Ball bearing hi flow is the best for all round performance and obviously it bolts straight back up from whence it came. No aftermarket turbo will do that. The ball bearing hi flow from GCG will reach the power limit of the standard engine ineternals. I have used a number of them and they are the ONLY turbo I have found that I can get more power EVERYWHERE than standard.:rofl:

Ball bearing hi flow is the best for all round performance and obviously it bolts straight back up from whence it came.  No aftermarket turbo will do that.  The ball bearing hi flow from GCG will reach the power limit of the standard engine ineternals.  I have used a number of them and they are the ONLY turbo I have found that I can get more power EVERYWHERE than standard.:rofl:

to clarify, if you will, do you mean high flow the stock rb20det turbo through say GCG? Is this turbo ball bearing stock or is that done when high flowed?

also i thought the rb20det internals would handle something like 250rwkw (is that right?, though i know injectors, afm, ecu etc need modding), surely the high flow doesn't get that much??

to clarify, if you will, do you mean high flow the stock rb20det turbo through say GCG?

Yep

Is this turbo ball bearing stock or is that done when high flowed??

Both

also i thought the rb20det internals would handle something like 250rwkw (is that right?,

Yep, but it does very much depend on the condition of the engine.

though i know injectors, afm, ecu etc need modding), surely the high flow doesn't get that much??

The GCG ball bearing hi flow produces enough airflow for 265 rwkw out of an RB25, done it quite a few times. There is no reason why an RB20 would be any different, as long as it has the right mods and the engine is in good enough condition.

Hope that answered your questions.:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...