Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how ya doin fellas...

i just bought a 95 R33 Gtst

The engine is pretty much stock except the turbo smat BOV,full 3.5 inch exhaust, GTR intercooler which is front mounted and HKS pod filter.

its currently running 4psi

id like to know what you guyz rekon my next upgrade steps should be ... if possible rough price estimate ...

also with my current setup how much boost yous think my engine could run comfortably ....

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68477-upgrade-guide-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

that excatly what i was going to say. YOu must have a bleed valve of some sort,restrictive mods or inaccurate gauges to have 4 psi. im curious if the car pulls hard?

With your current set up and the fact that its a 95 model as oppose to 96+ models, im sure that it can handle 10 - 12 psi tops.

But these advice have been mentioned before, do a search and you will be amazed.

the standard actuator is 5psi, so its sits just under +5 on the stock boost guage.

the stock guage is in mmhg not psi. +7 on the guage is 14psi. for next mods you should check out a piggyback computer and a boost controller or a full ecu replacement.

check out

apexi safc - fuel piggyback

hks evc - boost controller

blitz sbc - boost controller

apexi powerfc - full ecu

greddy emanage - full ecu

have a look at some of those products, theres an apexi powerfc faq under tutorials which will cover a lot of the questions youll have regarding aftermarket ecu's

personally mate, I'm on the same road as you and have the same mods.

Go get yourself a turbosmart bleed valve $100 and open it up so around 10psi (safe) or if you want that little bit more than 12psi. I don't recommend going over 12psi with standard turbo.

Now I've noticed running 10psi with FMIC and exhaust that the mixtures are quite rich and it doesn't rev out cleanly, so my next option is going to be a apexi PFC (around $1100 from nengun) only because I look to fit a bigger turbo in time.

Otherwise if your not looking to be going for bigger mods I would just get yourself a Apexi SAFC which will ONLY adjust your air/fuel mixtures and that would set you back around $450 for the unit and another $200 or so for a tune on the dyno.

Now that you have the adjustable a/f ratio you can go for things like a bigger Air flow meter and large fuel pump etc. Pumping more fuel and allowing more air into the engine as well as still being able to tune the mixtures perfectly.

So yeah thats my 2cents, but if I was you I'd definately start with a bleed valve and you will definately notice quite a bit of bang for you buck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...