Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BRAND NEW TURBO KIT FOR RB20/RB25DET

SPECS:


· T3/T4 .50compressor housing, .63 exhaust housing, 5 Bolt exhaust.

· (1) 90-degree and (1) 45-degree pipe for Downpipe

· Brand new 8.7Psi Wastegate

· Brand New Dual Type 50mm BOV

· Set of Turbo accessories

· One full set Oil Line and fittings

· Oil return Line kit

. Stainless (High mount) Manifold - STAINLESS with Lifetime Warranty

Price is $1500 + delivery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68763-500hp-turbo-kit-for-rb20rb25det/
Share on other sites

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

What kinda lag wud u get with that on an rb20 and what boost levels are best through it?

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

I know plenty of people using Master Power turbos and making big reliable power.

very similiar to XSPower....

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Most turbos that die are due to poor quality turbos like XSPower

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110947

]

The Ebay seller you bought it off

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...