Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo for 2.5L

Chase-u

By Chase-u,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chase-u Explorer

Chase-u

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i don't own a skyline, but i'm finding it hard to find out info on people having done a single turbo conversion onto a 1jz-gte toyota engine. I have a JZX90 toyota Chaser, I know it's toyota and all but i was hoping you could help me. For anyone who doesnt know it is a 2.5 litre twin cam twin turbo from factory making 206kw at 6200rpm and 362nm at 4800rpm.

I was looking at either a GT30 500hp turbo with a .82 rear housing, GT35r with a .82 rear housing or a 3040 with the .82 housing. I'm after a turbo that can give me around 1 bar of boost at around 3800-4000rpm but also give me around 280-290rwkw on 18-9psi. Can anyone tell me which one would be more suited to my car? i need it to be reaponsive, but as most people know i don't want it so responsive that it wheelspins so much that a hyundai excel could beat you. My car is an auto but is tricked up with carbon clutches, shift kit etc.

Thanks

I have a custom manifold HPC coated and also a 38mm Tial external Wastegate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68842-turbo-for-25l/
Share on other sites
Chase-u Explorer

Chase-u

Posted
  • Author
Posted
where did you get the shift kit done? Local?

There is a place in Melbourne called MV Auto's. He is the man when it comes to doing up soarer gearbox's and he does awesome work on skyline box's as well. put it this way, i wasn't impressed with anyone in brisbane so i sent my gearbox down to melbourne to get the work done.

He did a bigger stally 2800rpm, carbon clutches on 1st and 2nd and new clutches for 3rd and 4th, fully rebuilt and a service on all solonoids, stage 1 shift kit and is rated at 370kw with a gurantee. It costs $2600 but is worth it considering they use it in a celica running a 1jz which runs 10's with that exact package :)

i think it is HPI that is doing up the 4 door skyline, well they used him to do their gearbox as well, so he does do skylines.

R31Nismoid - What gt30 where you talking about, were you recommending the GT30 or the GT30R? and also what housing? I'm hoping that with this turbo i should gte around 14psi at around 3800rpm, is this correct? Thanks for your help guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68842-turbo-for-25l/#findComment-1276556
Share on other sites
Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted
thanks heaps guys, considering i don't have a skyline :rofl:
Doesn't really matter, so long as it goes hard, has forced inducton, and is RWD/AWD it's all good in my book! :) I think most people around here have similar opinions.

After I'm done with the R32 I'd really like to get a JZX100 Chaser. Great cars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68842-turbo-for-25l/#findComment-1278512
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Chase-u Explorer

Chase-u

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok can someone please try and clarify something for me, 2 of my mates are going for the same turbo and rear housing, one on a rb25 and one on a 1jz. the specs are:

GT3040R

Turbine

-Wheel: 60mm w/ 84 trim

-Housing: .82

-Maps

Compressor

-Wheel: 82mm w/ 56 trim

-Housing: .70 ar

They are argueing who's will spool first etc etc etc. can someone give me a rough estimate when both engines would start to spool and also when they would reach say 1 bar of boost. i was thinking around the 4200rpm mark, but that is just a guess. they are both after 310rwkw+.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68842-turbo-for-25l/#findComment-1305621
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...