Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have bought a blitz dual sbc boost controller for my gtr r33 and im having trouble running 16 psi with a stock engine, stock turbos, POWER FC,3inch exhast.

It bleeds down to 13psi and then go's back up to 16 and keeps going up and down right through all the gears you can actualy feel it surge as the boost levels change up and down,if you turn the gain down completly its not as bad but it dosent spool up fast at all and im losing about 25klw in the mid range.

I have been told its the best boost controller on the market and if you try to run more than double the boost of the acuators (7psi im told) it wont control the boost up top but it seems to do it at any boost level

Any info would be a great help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69126-boost-controller-issues/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
I have bought a blitz dual sbc  boost controller for my gtr r33 and im having trouble running 16 psi with a stock engine, stock turbos, POWER FC,3inch exhast.

It bleeds down to 13psi and then go's back up to 16 and keeps going up and down right through all the gears you can actualy feel it surge as the boost levels change up and down,if you turn the gain down completly its not as bad but it dosent spool up fast at all and im losing about 25klw in the mid range.

I have been told its the best boost controller on the market and if you try to run more than double the boost of the acuators (7psi im told) it wont control the boost up top but it seems to do it at any boost level

Any info would be a great help

do you have a copy of the english instructions?

ill fax you a copy if required

Who installed it?

I installed it then jim at CRD checked it quickly and said it was done right and couldnt work it out in the settings so im after the english insructions on how to set it,the thing has so many funtions it might take a while to sort out

Im going back to CRD on tuesday for a tune and he will try to sort it out then

If this problem occurs by fault of the boost controller setting it would normally point towards the gain (the speed at which the solenoid switches on and off to stabilise the boost level) being too low. If the boost was oscillating either side of your desired boost level at a very fast rate as opposed to a slow steady rate (easiest seen with an anologue boost gauge) then this points towards the gain being set too high. You need to find a happy medium with the gain control.

If you are not able to get the boost curve flat with the gain contol then I would be checking the vacuum / boost hoses that run between your boost pressure source, solenoid and wastegate actuators. Have they all been replaced with new silicone hose? (good idea). Do they still have any factory fitted resrictors inside the hoses? (if so remove). If still using the factory hoses one may have a split in it that will only be visable when the hose expands under boost pressure. Make sure that the solenoid's mounting position is not too far away from the wastegate actuators and if all good then get your wastegate actuators vacuum tested to see if the diaphragms are holding the extra boost pressure that they are now seeing. (could be leaking with the extra pressure but still ok with the std boost pressure). Could also be a boost leak somewhere between your turbo and throttle body..

See how you go...

If this problem occurs by fault of the boost controller setting it would normally point towards the gain (the speed at which the solenoid switches on and off to stabilise the boost level) being too low. If the boost was oscillating either side of your desired boost level at a very fast rate as opposed to a slow steady rate (easiest seen with an anologue boost gauge) then this points towards the gain being set too high. You need to find a happy medium with the gain control.  

If you are not able to get the boost curve flat with the gain contol then I would be checking the vacuum / boost hoses that run between your boost pressure source, solenoid and wastegate actuators. Have they all been replaced with new silicone hose? (good idea). Do they still have any factory fitted resrictors inside the hoses? (if so remove). If still using the factory hoses one may have a split in it that will only be visable when the hose expands under boost pressure. Make sure that the solenoid's mounting position is not too far away from the wastegate actuators and if all good then get your wastegate actuators vacuum tested to see if the diaphragms are holding the extra boost pressure that they are now seeing. (could be leaking with the extra pressure but still ok with the std boost pressure).

See how you go...

The vacume lines are all new the controller sits next to the stock one

How can i test the diaphragms my self

You need a 'Mighty Vac'. Its like a hand pump with a gauge on it that you would connect to the actuator. You pump pressure (the intended boost pressure level) into the actuator and see if it holds on the gauge. If it drops down then this could be your problem. Not the sort of tool that everyone has laying round the garage unfortunately...

i will be at CRD on Tues. see you then if your still there...i will be in the silver r32 TWO.06L

Thanks mate i will be there at 8am untill its finished

Can you bring a copy of english instructions for the boost controller?

How did it go at CRD??

i sorted the boost controller out my self its working a lot better now i put it closer to the turbos (swaped sides in the bay) so the hose coming from the accuators is a lot shorter but the boost hose is still over 1meter long, i reckon when i shorten the boost hose it will be better again and when i get the english instructions it will be perfect

jim said its working good enough for the tune and should have my car sorted to pick up thursday so i will let you know how it went

got my car back and it made 256klw at all 4 wheels (stock turbos,94mm exhast,power fc,blitz air filters)

the tune is awsome it feels like a factory tune,the knock meter never go's over 30

im taking it to the creek on wednesday night i hope it runs mid 12s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...