Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have bought a blitz dual sbc boost controller for my gtr r33 and im having trouble running 16 psi with a stock engine, stock turbos, POWER FC,3inch exhast.

It bleeds down to 13psi and then go's back up to 16 and keeps going up and down right through all the gears you can actualy feel it surge as the boost levels change up and down,if you turn the gain down completly its not as bad but it dosent spool up fast at all and im losing about 25klw in the mid range.

I have been told its the best boost controller on the market and if you try to run more than double the boost of the acuators (7psi im told) it wont control the boost up top but it seems to do it at any boost level

Any info would be a great help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69126-boost-controller-issues/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
I have bought a blitz dual sbc  boost controller for my gtr r33 and im having trouble running 16 psi with a stock engine, stock turbos, POWER FC,3inch exhast.

It bleeds down to 13psi and then go's back up to 16 and keeps going up and down right through all the gears you can actualy feel it surge as the boost levels change up and down,if you turn the gain down completly its not as bad but it dosent spool up fast at all and im losing about 25klw in the mid range.

I have been told its the best boost controller on the market and if you try to run more than double the boost of the acuators (7psi im told) it wont control the boost up top but it seems to do it at any boost level

Any info would be a great help

do you have a copy of the english instructions?

ill fax you a copy if required

Who installed it?

I installed it then jim at CRD checked it quickly and said it was done right and couldnt work it out in the settings so im after the english insructions on how to set it,the thing has so many funtions it might take a while to sort out

Im going back to CRD on tuesday for a tune and he will try to sort it out then

If this problem occurs by fault of the boost controller setting it would normally point towards the gain (the speed at which the solenoid switches on and off to stabilise the boost level) being too low. If the boost was oscillating either side of your desired boost level at a very fast rate as opposed to a slow steady rate (easiest seen with an anologue boost gauge) then this points towards the gain being set too high. You need to find a happy medium with the gain control.

If you are not able to get the boost curve flat with the gain contol then I would be checking the vacuum / boost hoses that run between your boost pressure source, solenoid and wastegate actuators. Have they all been replaced with new silicone hose? (good idea). Do they still have any factory fitted resrictors inside the hoses? (if so remove). If still using the factory hoses one may have a split in it that will only be visable when the hose expands under boost pressure. Make sure that the solenoid's mounting position is not too far away from the wastegate actuators and if all good then get your wastegate actuators vacuum tested to see if the diaphragms are holding the extra boost pressure that they are now seeing. (could be leaking with the extra pressure but still ok with the std boost pressure). Could also be a boost leak somewhere between your turbo and throttle body..

See how you go...

If this problem occurs by fault of the boost controller setting it would normally point towards the gain (the speed at which the solenoid switches on and off to stabilise the boost level) being too low. If the boost was oscillating either side of your desired boost level at a very fast rate as opposed to a slow steady rate (easiest seen with an anologue boost gauge) then this points towards the gain being set too high. You need to find a happy medium with the gain control.  

If you are not able to get the boost curve flat with the gain contol then I would be checking the vacuum / boost hoses that run between your boost pressure source, solenoid and wastegate actuators. Have they all been replaced with new silicone hose? (good idea). Do they still have any factory fitted resrictors inside the hoses? (if so remove). If still using the factory hoses one may have a split in it that will only be visable when the hose expands under boost pressure. Make sure that the solenoid's mounting position is not too far away from the wastegate actuators and if all good then get your wastegate actuators vacuum tested to see if the diaphragms are holding the extra boost pressure that they are now seeing. (could be leaking with the extra pressure but still ok with the std boost pressure).

See how you go...

The vacume lines are all new the controller sits next to the stock one

How can i test the diaphragms my self

You need a 'Mighty Vac'. Its like a hand pump with a gauge on it that you would connect to the actuator. You pump pressure (the intended boost pressure level) into the actuator and see if it holds on the gauge. If it drops down then this could be your problem. Not the sort of tool that everyone has laying round the garage unfortunately...

i will be at CRD on Tues. see you then if your still there...i will be in the silver r32 TWO.06L

Thanks mate i will be there at 8am untill its finished

Can you bring a copy of english instructions for the boost controller?

How did it go at CRD??

i sorted the boost controller out my self its working a lot better now i put it closer to the turbos (swaped sides in the bay) so the hose coming from the accuators is a lot shorter but the boost hose is still over 1meter long, i reckon when i shorten the boost hose it will be better again and when i get the english instructions it will be perfect

jim said its working good enough for the tune and should have my car sorted to pick up thursday so i will let you know how it went

got my car back and it made 256klw at all 4 wheels (stock turbos,94mm exhast,power fc,blitz air filters)

the tune is awsome it feels like a factory tune,the knock meter never go's over 30

im taking it to the creek on wednesday night i hope it runs mid 12s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...