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I am looking for a camber kit to allow me to go to 3 degrees or more in negative camber for track sprints. Looking at the Whiteline kit, it only allows camber adjustments of 0.75 - 1 degree front and back. I believe Cusco make a fully adjustable camber kit using the wishbone style brackets, but was wondering if anyone knows of any other brands.

Are there any locally manufactured camber kits or suspension specialists I should be talking to?

Also, I have been told I need to replace the short rods when I go to this much camber. Can anyone confirm this.

Thanks

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I am looking for a camber kit to allow me to go to 3 degrees or more in negative camber for track sprints. Looking at the Whiteline kit, it only allows camber adjustments of 0.75 - 1 degree front and back. I believe Cusco make a fully adjustable camber kit using the wishbone style brackets, but was wondering if anyone knows of any other brands.

Are there any locally manufactured camber kits or suspension specialists I should be talking to?

Also, I have been told I need to replace the short rods when I go to this much camber. Can anyone confirm this.

Thanks

Hi Pete, we use the Whiteline camber kits (offset bush style) front and rear as well as the caster kits (also offset bush style) . With 7 degrees positive caster on GTST's and 3 degrees positive caster on the GTR's we find it unnecessary to run more than 3 degrees negative camber on the front. One the rear, we run a max of 2 degrees negative using the standard camber adjusters plus one Whitleine camber kit per side. You can use 2 kits (both inner and outer bushes) for less than 1 degree, but we have not found it to be necessary.

We found that lowering to a beneficial ride height (not very low) adds too much negative on the rear and we actually had to take some negative off with the camber kit. The standard adjuster did not have enough adjustment. Lowering does not have as much effect on the front, but the Whitleine adjusters are more than enough.

Hope that is of some help.;)

PS; all the cars have adjustable Whiteline stabiliser bars front and rear. Being 27 mm front on the GTST's, 24 mm front on the GTR's and 22 mm or 24 mm on the rear of both.

Hi SK,

Thanks for your reply.

I am a little bit confused (which is most of the time - especially when trying to access information for the car as I have very, very limited mechanical knowledge).

The tires are wearing off the sholders on the track. I am starting to get a little faster now and I would have thought that say around 3 degrees of negative (and I take that as leaning in at the top of the wheel) would give me a more even wear and increased grip on cornering.

Some have said setting the outside wheels to slightly more camber than the inside - but usually this is from other people with equally limited knowledge.

I don't quite understand the positive camber aspect of your set ups.

Someone told me just recently that lowering the car slightly would assist, however I find it hard getting in and out of my driveway as it is.

Ideally, I am looking for a kit which I can set for the track when I get there and then set back to normal to drive home.

Am I on the right track or "dreaming".

Hi SK, Thanks for your reply.

I am a little bit confused (which is most of the time - especially when trying to access information for the car as I have very, very limited mechanical knowledge).

The tires are wearing off the sholders on the track. I am starting to get a little faster now and I would have thought that say around 3 degrees of negative (and I take that as leaning in at the top of the wheel) would give me a more even wear and increased grip on cornering.

Some have said setting the outside wheels to slightly more camber than the inside - but usually this is from other people with equally limited knowledge.

I don't quite understand the positive camber aspect of your set ups.

Someone told me just recently that lowering the car slightly would assist, however I find it hard getting in and out of my driveway as it is.

Ideally, I am looking for a kit which I can set for the track when I get there and then set back to normal to drive home.

Am I on the right track or "dreaming".

A little explanation first, caster occurs when you turn the steering wheel. The outside wheel goes negative camber, the more you turn the wheel the move camber change you get. Think of it as camber on demand. when the corner is tighter, you turn the steering wheel more, so you get more negative camber on the outside wheel. This increases the contact patch of the tyres because the chassis leans over (call it body roll if you must).

The real bonus with caster is not only does the oustide wheel go negative camber in respone to steering wheel inputs, the inside wheel equally goes positive camber. So when the chassis leans away form the inside wheel, it helps to have less negative camber on that front wheel (increasing the tyre contact patch there as well).

So by having more caster you have to run less camber. This is good because when you want to stop, more of the tyre is on the road. When you have lots of negative camber you are only using the inside of the tyre to stop. Also when you brake heavily, the weight transfers to the front, compresses the front springs and this bring on even more negative camber.

My routine for changing over a road car to a track car, is to jack it up to change the tyres ("R" compound at the very least). While it is up in the air, I adjust the stabiliser bars and I can simply wind on a bit more camber if I need to. I have a portable camber gauge for that purpose. You could simply mark the rotating adjuster in increments of 1 degree when it is on the wheel aligner, then you don't need to carry a camber gauge. Let's face it, jacking the car up is the hard part, a minute or two extra spent adjusting is insignificant.

I have been known to change the tyres and do the adjustments at the track, sometimes though, I do it the night before and drive to the track ready to go. Then change it back to the road settings when I get home, in the comfort of my own garage.

east coast make a camber kit for the front i run 5 neg camber on the front and need to go to 6 on my gtr this is the guy to go and see 95451044 and ask for david

Hi jason, I think perhaps you have caster and camber mixed up. East Coast are far to experienced to send a car out with 6 degrees negative camber on the front. Either that or you don't have enough anti roll, insufficient anti dive, far too soft a spring rate and shock valving in compression. That much camber is simply not necessary when the car is set up correctly.

Hope that helps:cheers:

it has 5 - camber and 9+ caster and 6+ toe out this is just a track car and this is how it has been set up so sorry im not mixed up but still it needs more camber as i have worn the out side edge s of a new set off slicks after only 20 laps

it has 5 - camber and 9+ caster and 6+ toe out this is just a track car and this is how it has been set up so sorry im not mixed up but still it needs more camber as i have worn the out side edge s of a new set off slicks after only 20 laps

Camber is not your problem, 5 degrees negative is rediculous on its own. Then add that to 9 degrees postive caster and you have ~14 degrees on a 20 degree steering corner. That's a lot of roll to be compensating for, it must fee like its falling over the outside front.

What spring and anti roll rates are you using? How much compression damping is there in the shocks? That's what I would be looking for, not more camber.

:(

thanks mate i need to do something as these tyre are to expensive david at east coast is looking into it now for me thanks again mate

It is not often that we get a decent suspension thread going on SAU, so please post up what results you get.:P

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