Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at purchasing a series 2 R33 Gts-t. if anyone has had one or knows about them tell us what you think of them.

Also if anyone can help me out; whats the difference between the normal gts-t the m-spec and the gts-4.

any comments or thoughts would be much appreciated, cheers.

Hi, yeah I have a series II GTS25t and am very happy with it, great car. If I had a bit more cash I prolly would have looked around for a 98 R34 GTT, but apart from that no complaints whatsoever, I love my car, and judging from the attention she gets so does everyone else :(

As slow13dude said, GTS25t M Spec is a turbo RWD and GTS4 is NA AWD

As far as I know, ALL R33 GTS-T's are M-Spec. The only difference between any of them is that some got an active diff, which is apparently quite rare.

I looked at around 10 Series 2 R33's, and test-drove 4 of them. I didn't like the brake pedal in ANY of the ABS-equiped cars - they all felt soggy and pooh in general. My car (non-ABS) has a shift-kit of some kind and the gearbox feels FANTASTIC for having it, if a little notchy for some people. Apparentley they all have a flat spot in the power curve at 5,000rpm when the boost increases, and I'll be fixing that with an Apexi AVC-R boost controller and PowerFC engine computer. My HICAS warning light kept coming on, and the speedo kept dropping out too, but that seems to have been fixed by taking the instrument pod out and cleaning all the contacts. My Diff's getting a little noisy too - and it doesn't do any limiting of slip either. Oh well....

Private sale cars seem to run $17500 -> $21000 and importers/yards seems to start at $20,500 and go up from there.

I love My baby :love:

If they have soggy brake pedals the pads need replacing maybe? Mine has ABS and the pedal is actually really firm and the brakes have just flat out surprised me a couple times when I've really needed them used them as to how good they are.

This is the first ABS car I've owned but I read somewhere that if the brake pedal feels "spongy" then it's time to change the pads.

Oh yeah and I missed that bit about Type-M's...ok as far as I understand it, in R32s there was a GTSt Type-M (with a bodykit, bigger brakes, etc) and a regular GTSt which was cheaper. There was also a Type-S which I believe was a lower trim level.

In R33s there was the GTS25 Type-S (non turbo) and the GTS25t Type-M (turbo) and no non-turbo Type-M. And then of course a bunch of other variants like GTS4, Urban Runner etc, all of which were non-turbo. Urban Runner was RB20DE non-turbo (nice lol) and GTS4 was ATTESA AWD non-turbo.

So anyway, by the time R33s came about all turbo skyline GTS25t's were type-M and all N/A ones weren't type-M

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...