Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need 10 people to qualify this group buy of oil catch can kits.

Comes with:

- 15mm or 12mm hose (1.2m) - please specify.

- hose clamps

- filter

- 800ml

- Unbaffled but can be easily done with steel wool and a stocking (SK handy tip number 1954) :cheers:

catchtank.jpg

Usefull installation links - click here - and here - and here

Price for 10 buyers - $80 delivered (Australia only)

Closing - Wednesday 20th April. Payment due Friday 22nd April.

1/ 400kwgtr_____________ - PAID - SENT

2/ Gizmo73______________ - AWAITING PAYMENT

3/ Abo Bob______________ - PAID - SENT

4/ (B1) MR_fanny_________ - PAID - SENT

5/ aussnick______________ - PAID - SENT

6/ [[d a n n y]]___________ - PAID - SENT

7/ gtrGhosTDoGG11_______ - PAID - SENT

8/ GIGOLO______________ - PAID - SENT

9/ voona________________ - AWAITING PAYMENT

10/ damuscat____________ - PAID - SENT

11/ C & B________________ - AWAITING PAYMENT

12/ BLakniTE x2___________ - PAID (2) - SENT (2)

13/ tkch55 x2_____________ - PAID (2) - SENT (2)

14/ nismo_au_____________ - PAID - SENT

15/ lwells________________ - PAID - SENT

16/ Yotis_________________ - PAID - SENT

17/ stu_r30_______________ - AWAITING PAYMENT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69665-oil-catch-can-kits/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yowser...

Im also in..nice price..

Just to confirm for all - these ones dont need to be cut open/welded again to install baffling...they have access via a lid, etc etc...

Based on the threads about this going around, im sure this wouldve been asked eventually !!

The filter can be taken off for the plumb back set-up.

The opening for the filter is just big enough to feed the stocking in and then stuff it with steel wool. I used a wooden skewer to help feed the steel wool in.

:)

How big is the opening where the filter is? Does it have a thread? What can you use to close it off?

Also, the 2 inlet/outlets, do they finish with the wall of the can or they lead a bit inside?

Sorry about all the questions but I got a dodgy one recently. :D

Top opening = 9mm inner diameter

No thread but has lip for hose clamp.

You could use a bung or a peice of hose with a bolt and hose clamp to close it off.

2 inlet/outlets finish with the wall of the can.

Yeh ill take 1 for 80 bux ;)

Count me in, PM me for more details please

Alright! 9 out of 10 already. :)

I will PM everyone with payment details as soon as we get the 10th buyer.

:)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...