Jump to content
SAU Community

I think i stuffed up!

Kor'axis

By Kor'axis,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kor'axis Experienced

Kor'axis

Posted
Posted

As the title suggests, i think i stuffed up.

I was attempting to put a pod filter on. During the process, i removed the AFM and when i took the plug out i think i didn't do it right so this pins inside broke! :Oops:

SO i put it back together the way it was orignially. Now the car doesn't idle right Revs go up and down and my exhaust is giving off black smoke....

Am i gonna need a new AFM or is this fixable?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69711-i-think-i-stuffed-up/
Share on other sites
someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

The car is doing the smoke thing cos it's gone into limp mode and putting a bunch of petrol in to run rich to protect the engine (as it assumes a helluva lotta air is goin in to be safe).

If you broke the pins, it's basically a simple matter of connecting the connections again. How you go about this is up to you.

If you can open the AFM you MIGHT be able to make a new pin ... say.. with a paperclip or something conductive, and if you can, open the actual plug itself and try to replace the pin (always use solder).

Now, if I recall the plug is female and the AFM is male, so I assume the pins were in on the AFM.

I dono how to take apart an AFM, someone else might be able to tell you.. but so long as you can make the same wires connect through the pin you'll be ok.

Worst come to worst just goto wreckers :D

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Watermouse
      Chris' R34 GTT Series 2

      By Watermouse · Posted

    • Lithium
      Garrett G Series

      By Lithium · Posted

      Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...