Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm look at buying an R33 GTR and modify it, but it would be handy if it could be daily driven too. how far can i mod it before it becomes a pain in the ass to drive in traffic? I want to go down the HKS 2530 route with some mild cams, power fc etc. Would this make it a pain to drive, would it be reliable? Twin plate clutches are no drama everyone of my current cars has one, but would i need bigger? what size cams could i use before it became a lumpy pig? Are there any parts of R33 GTR that are renowned for breaking, should i be worried about the gearbox at this level of mods?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69811-daily-driver-when-to-stop-modifying/
Share on other sites

Ive got a 32 GTR with similar mods to what you want, 2530's, Tomei 260 poncams, powerfc, avcr and camgears, making 330kw at the wheels. Also has HKS twin plate in it (which is meant to be one of the more vicious to drive on the market), full whiteline suspension and its still quite nice to drive on the street.

In my opinion, it has reached the level of being an extremely quick street driven car, while still maintaining response and driveability etc.

It can certainly be driven daily, I just dont as I have a commodore to rack the kms up on instead of the gtr ;)

EDIT: Ive also smashed a gearbox (3rd gear) with the current setup, but I was doing extremely ham-fisted 2nd -> 3rd gear changes. I take it a bit slower now and dont quite use as much force to change, and work the throttle in from 75% -> 100% instead of just mashing the pedal and havnt had a problem.

:D

when to stop modifying??? the answer is probably never as for some reason we all go and change one more thing, and then another a little later after we say thats it for now.....

But to answer your question, i wouldn't go any further than Amaru if you'd like it to be a daily driver. The r34 N1 turbo's would be great for a regularly street driven GTR since they come on boost just like std turbo's pretty much but are better and are capable of getting to 300kw at the wheels before running out of their efficiency range.

Personally, i dont think anyone considering a daily driver street car should go over that mark as practicality would go right out the window...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...