Jump to content
SAU Community

Would It Be Balanced To Drift?

treo

By treo,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

treo Collaborator

treo

Posted
Posted

Gday guy n girls

I currently drift my R33 which has a basic drift setup with all the basic suspension and driveline mods. Its fairly stable car and has good mid range torque equally too my previous Typex180, however i plane on selling skyline and getting its older brother. Once the car is sold i plane on getting a run about car and begin setting up an R32 for light track work and plenty of drift.

I plane to do an Rb25 converstion to the R32 soon after purchase, does the rb25 weigh much more than the rb20? Im wondering if i do converstion if the R32 is still be a well balanced coupe? It would include R33 gearbox with motor. Maybe with a good suspension setup it could become more stable if neccessary. Also Is it at all possibe too fit my Tomei 2way centre in an R32 when its meant and is currently in my R33? Can you get different half shafts or modify something to suit the R32?

Anyone with some constructive advice

or helpful pointers would be great :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70025-would-it-be-balanced-to-drift/
Share on other sites
NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

HPI 8 as the nice green r32 4 door with RB25, it drifts unreal. all cars with the right setup and driver skill will drift.

i cant imagine that an engine swap from rb20 to rb25 would change the balance of the car. removing the underlay and unecessary trim bits would prob balance it up again.

roll cages and bracing increase weight, but improve chassis response.

an rb25 puts out more power and torque, but add a fraction more weight.

everything will equal out... and aslong as u get used to driving it and drifting it, it will be fine, everyone has their own style and car setup.

cheers

Linton

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Engine swap: I would recommend against it. The RB20 is a great engine, and loves to be thrashed. Teamed up with cooler, fuel pump, adj FPR, boost control and a fuel cut defender (or remap ecu) - you are ready to thrash.

The RB20 absolutely rips with a HKS 2530 turbo or similar, enough for 220-230 rwkw, perfect.

The RB20 is alot cheaper than the RB25 should you lunch it, another factor to consider. For the cost of RB25 and gearbox, you could have several RB20 engines, or pay for alot of mods to the R32. Its just plain more cost effective, and the RB20 works fine. If you dont beleive me, check Kelly Mckinnon, who competes in the Drift Aust rounds.

As for balance, well of course it will change the balance. You may be able to sort the balance with the right sus, but it will never be as good as with the RB20 - why? ANY extra weight will have negative effects. Its not just about balance, a car that is lighter will have more effective power at the wheels, brake better, corner better, and most importantly, be better to control when drifting due to the reduced inertial.

Your diff - change the centre, it will swap across. You could fit the 33 diff (I have a 33 diff in my S13), but the R32 centre uses 4.3:1 ratios, the 33 is 4.1 and therefore not as good for drift/midrange.

Lastly, if you want an expert opinion, ring the guys of D1 Garage on 08 8294 1355, James had an RB20 powered cefiro that absolutey ripped with minimal mods, and took regualar (almost daily), long hard thrash sessions with no problem.

treo Collaborator

treo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Linton, thats a good point about extra bracing and a rollcage would equally weigh to the rear if setup correctly a little time and research i think it could be achieved.

Thanks Steve, I know the Rb20 powered 32 is proven to be a good drift plateform, like you said there is plenty of Aussie winning events in these cars. However i know the money is $$$$ and could be spent rebuilding the rb20, however the consept of doing the conversion is too exciting.

Hey also Isnt the diff ratio determined by the teeth on crown wheel and pinion?? If i could i would be setting the 2way centre up in the R32 housing or even buy a non turbo R32 Diff and housing i think they have a 4.44:1 which would be good

treo Collaborator

treo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Linton, thats a good point about extra bracing and a rollcage would equally weigh to the rear if setup correctly a little time and research i think it could be achieved.

Thanks Steve, I know the Rb20 powered 32 is proven to be a good drift plateform, like you said there is plenty of Aussie winning events in these cars. However i know the money is $$$$ and could be spent rebuilding the rb20, however the consept of doing the conversion is too exciting.

Hey also Isnt the diff ratio determined by the teeth on crown wheel and pinion?? If i could i would be setting the 2way centre up in the R32 housing or even buy a non turbo R32 Diff and housing i think they have a 4.44:1. So my diff ratio wouldnt be the R33 4.11 it would be either 4.33 or 4.44, thats if i bought a non turbo r32 diff and housing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...