Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Unlike the rb20det it makes a difference if I boost it around everywhere.

The RB20DET would always get 470km's to a tank of juice.

The RB30DET if heavy with the foot will get a minimum of 430 and a best of 520 with a light cruising foot.

Nice result there Joel!

Can't wait to get the last few parts to go onto my RB31. Then I can get it all tuned!

Just have to get the turbo highflowed (RB25 S2 turbo) and decide on what injectors I want to go. Not sure if I want 550's or 600's. They are both the same cost.

Unlike the rb20det it makes a difference if I boost it around everywhere.

 

The RB20DET would always get 470km's to a tank of juice.

 

The RB30DET if heavy with the foot will get a minimum of 430 and a best of 520 with a light cruising foot.

Thats not too bad hey. I guess also with still running the rb20 turbo its on boost 90% of the time.

Im getting about 570kms to the tank atm, so I guess if I did it with my pansyarse driving I should get 500kms a tank easy. Its fair for a ballistic motor :)

Unlike the rb20det it makes a difference if I boost it around everywhere.

 

The RB20DET would always get 470km's to a tank of juice.

 

The RB30DET if heavy with the foot will get a minimum of 430 and a best of 520 with a light cruising foot.

must be a rb20 thing.. i put my foot down everywere always get around 400 to a full tank 300 by 1/4 left.. no matter how i drive :) weather its like i stole it or miss daisy but meh hopefully a rb30det will be in my engine bay by the end of the year.. (if i get my act together n start working again)

nice results tho

Unlike the rb20det it makes a difference if I boost it around everywhere.

 

The RB20DET would always get 470km's to a tank of juice.

 

The RB30DET if heavy with the foot will get a minimum of 430 and a best of 520 with a light cruising foot.

Nice work cubes.

I thought u would have budgeted to get the big snail on there so it could have all gone on their at once.

I dont know how you are getting such good fuel economy there, I am lucky to get anything over 300km to a full tank driving like a granny to work everyday

Yer not sure on the fuel economy, A couple of things I can think of?!?

Accelerating around slowly and boost starts to build I lick the throttle back a little to let the BOV bleed the boost.

RB20 general driving I used to change up at around 3000rpm.

RB30, I change up just over 2000rpm, some times i throw it in a high gear and let the torque lug slowly to the speed limit.

What injectors are you running?

Spray patterns and good atomisation make a noticable difference to economy.

Inasnt,

Its some where in the Settings Inj menu. The ms. Unsure if it states injector correction or not. :rofl:

Out of curiosity I've done a few little calcs.

After looking at the peak power it really is approx 175rwkw which was made from approx 4500rpm to 4950rpm.

The 176rwkw was simply a little peak in the graph, I don't consider it a power figure. If that makes sense. :)

So lets say 4500rpm is where the peak power was made.

RB30DET - 4500rpm to 4950rpm

flows the same air as an

RB20DET - 6775rpm to 7400rpm

My old RB20DET made its peak power figure of 164rwkw (stock ecu but) on 1bar of boost at 7000rpm. I thought 7000rpm was a little high for a stocker so it may have been a dyno operator error. Rev's flick quickly around that point so it may have been 6800rpm or even 6500rpm (more likely)

Either way it gives a general idea on the engine airflow differences between the two motors.

No wonder the turbo drops power after 5000rpm. :(

If this turbo was on the rb25det I would expect it to make its peak power between 5425rpm to 5925rpm.

Has any one got a dyno graph of their RB25 on the stock RB25 turbo, where it makes its peak power or if the graph rounds out slightly?

By RB25 factory specs (6200rpm) I would expect peak power on the 3ltr with the rb25 turbo to be around 5150rpm then maybe round off and possibly hold a figure close to that for another 500rpm or maybe hold an average power figure over 500rpm with the 5150rpm being the in the middle of that distribution.

It would be interesting if this theory were to hold true, and if VCT on the RB25 RB25 head actually extends the peak power figure on the 3ltr, hence improving VE a noticable amount in the top end over the RB25DE N/A Cams.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...