Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, just wondering if anyone can help me here

ive got three wires to connect for the boost gauge

they are:

12V ignition

12V lighting and

Ground

now, just wondering which wires i should splice into for all three ???

the car is a ser1 r33 gts-t....im unsure of what wire goes where

if anyone has pics thatd be excellent

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70219-smoke-face-boost-gauge-wiring/
Share on other sites

My guess is that the 12V ignition is for the costant light to light up the smoke face. Then when you turn on your lights the 12V lighting (connected to the ciggy light ie, accesories) makes the boost gauge light up even more as it is now dark out side and the constant 12V ignition lighting is not enough.

Just a guess dude, dont take what I say as bible.... Hope this helps.

  • 2 months later...

can someone help me out i have a TIMEX smoked boost gauge with 3 wires

black, yellow, red

the instructions are crap and don't mention which color is for what

i'd assume: Black = ground

Yellow = lighting or ignition

Red = lighting or ignition

can someone help me out how to find out which is which

also what is the best way to connect the pressure hose. there isn't much holding the hose in and it would leak if under a lot of pressure. any ideas on how to fix this?

zip ties :P

and as for the wiring, don't quote me but i *think* that:

red = +12V constant

black = GND

yellow = +12V Accessories

but this could be worng. i have a timex oil temp and the yellow wire for that is the sensor wire from memory :confused: but i'm assumiong that it's a mechanical boost guage?

I think the australian standard is as below. I cant think why your gauge new need const power though? Does it have any memory features?

If its a eletronic boost gauge (ie comes with a MAP sensor) then it should work as follows:

yellow => 12v Accessories

Red => must be to the MAP Sensor

Black => Almost certainly be ground

If that does not work swap the yellow & red wires.

If its a mechanical job then:

yellow => 12v Accessories

Red => must be const (for memory features)

Black => Almost certainly be ground

zip ties :P

and as for the wiring, don't quote me but i *think* that:

red = +12V constant

black = GND

yellow = +12V Accessories

but this could be worng. i have a timex oil temp and the yellow wire for that is the sensor wire from memory :confused: but i'm assumiong that it's a mechanical boost guage?

The Timex gauges don't have memory features. My oil temp guage needed 12V constant from memory and I still have no idea why it needs it?

My best guess says it's this one:

If its a mechanical job then:

yellow => 12v Accessories

Red => must be const (for memory features)

Black => Almost certainly be ground

the guy said it was electrical but i don't fully understand the difference...it still has a place for the pressure tube to go in...so how is that different to mechanical.

i'd assume it has constant power...because it's smoke faced...eg hard to read without a back light.

and the accessorie light is for when it's night time and needs to be brighter i guess.

jsut thought i'd post some pics of the gauge to help out...

wats the difference between mech and electrical btw?

the parts picture shows a nylon tube (white) and small black rubber tube, pressure nozzle, two tiny things that look like /

........................................ /

(ignore the dots)

and also a screw that looks like |_| with a whole in the bottom for the white pressure hose to fit through...

the hose fits bit could be pulled out easily...eg if underpressure.

any ideas

thansk for the replys guys

It might not be mechanical: It sounds to me like the MAP sensor might be in the guage it self (I know it sounds stupid but it fits the facts). This means that you need the tube in the back for the MAP sensor, const power for the MAP sensor (red), acc for the light (yellow) and ground (black).

if it's got a tube to attach a hose then it's mechanical.

:P

As for the pressure hose:

You need a little "nipple" like thing on the end of the hose that goes into the gauge. Then when you do the bolt up it gets a little crushed and forms a seal. Go to autoBarn or some place like that and they will show you what I mean, you can get these parts there too.

Yea, thats them. It looks like your hose is to fat to use them though :{

That yellow wire is const for sure!

Here is another theory, it may be the case that it is setup to be either electrical or mechanical ???

pictures are now up ^^^^

the nipple things aren't the little gold things in the pic with all the parts??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...