Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The MAP reading has to come from a MAP sensor. R33's have them for the stock boost gauge near the speedo but they are only good to read about 1 bar I think. They are located in the top left on the engine bay if you are look from the front of the car.

also do u hook up electrical the same as mechanical? where do u get the MAP reading from?

so how should i hook it up...

i was going to jsut run a t-piece into the stock boost line and use that.

it needs constant power coz it's smoked face so do i use the MAP or mechanical?

i tried tightening the two things over the nipple part but it didn't want to crush.

i tried using some plyers to see if i could cruch it a bit but it was pretty hard. i don't wanan strip the parts trying to crush it.

any more help is GREATLY appriciated thanks guys

OK. when you look at the front of the Plenum (the thing connected to your throttle body) you will see a thin black hose comming out of it. Patch into that with a T peice. If you get some thinner pressure hose the "nipple things" will work!

Then connect the const (red) and the ground (black) and see if it works? If you find that the light is always on even when the car is off then patch the const to the cigerett (spelling?) lighter wiring (thats what I did).

Do this all in your engine bay first to see if it works...

It might not be mechanical: It sounds to me like the MAP sensor might be in the guage it self (I know it sounds stupid but it fits the facts). This means that you need the tube in the back for the MAP sensor, const power for the MAP sensor (red), acc for the light (yellow) and ground (black).

I thought that electrical boost/vaccum gauges didn't require a connection directly to a vaccum line (ie - from the vaccum lines in the engine bay :confused: ) They get their signal from a factory fitted or aftermarket sensor which sends the signal electronically - hence 'electronic' boost gauge vs mechanical?

  • 2 weeks later...

ok update...

today i earthed the black wire obviously then placed the red wire on the positive battery and the gauge lit up. (it's smoke faced remember and has 7 different colors (i'll stick to plain lite up i think ;)) anyway i tried removing the red wire and placing the yellow on the positive and i got nothing.

Does this help anyone work out wat the other wire is for. and should i connect it to a constant so it's always getting lit up when ever the car is running. where wud u splice into for this?

still a little lsot on this one

thank for ur help so far

restless 33,

ok, its obviously mechanical because of the piping and nipple thingy in the back of the gauge itself.

firstly, is the gauge supposed to be illuminated constantly, then maybe dim when the lights go on like digital clocks etc...?

does it have any sort of memory function, such as remembering what colour you had it set on?

my guess is

black is ground, it always is.

yellow is constant power because it is clearly much larger than the other wires

red is accessory power, because u said it turned on the gauge..

i think this is the most likely setup for this gauge. i am almost 100% sure this is what the wires are for

if your brave, you can test this by

-grounding black,

-hooking up red to power, then try changing the colour of the gauge, set it on a different colour to what it turned on with.

-pull off the red wire, then put it back on, if its back to the first colour then obviously the yellow is needed for constant power for memory of the colour settings.

-and then red is Accessory power to turn on the gauge when the car is turned on.

i would ground the black to the chassis, or negative of ciggie lighter power.

hook up yellow to a constant power source ie headunit, clock, key barrel,

and red needs to go to an accessory power source, ie ciggie power, etc

hope thats it or i'll feel stupid... :rofl:

dan

thanks mate, i'm still learning everythign bout cars as my 33 is my first. that should be everything i need.

u were right saying it goes back to the first color.

thanks heaps i'll chuck it in asap

  • 2 years later...

old thread i know, but i think mechanical v electronic but refer to the internals of the gauge itself, not whether or not it gets 'plumbed' directly to the gauge. Reason i say that is cos i have an Apexi ELI Boost gauge that only has electrical wires going into the gauge, but it is listed/sold as a mechanical gauge....

it runs off the factory MAP sensor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...