Rear speakers r33 s1

[MsG_ChRiS]

does ne1 have a guide to installing new rear speakers in a S-1 R33

i just cant work it out ne help would be much appreciated

thanx

[SLIPPERY]

ok, this is gonna be vague..

disconnect speakers

take out child restraint bolts

take out rear back rest by lifting it out of its clips

pull out

lift up rear shelf (clips into chassis with clips at rear)

pull one side of shelf out towards yourself, then the other will follow

take speaker grills off

unscrew speakers

chuck in new 6 inchers (if 6x9s, spacers needed)

screw tight

put back everything

connect

if thats wrong, someone can correct me

[BADHAB|T]

Ok, maybe I'll have a go at a more acuurate guide. There is no difference between the S1 and S2 as far as audio goes. I have a S2 and have worked on both (I install audio for a living)

There are two parts to the rear seat - the bit your arse sits on and the bit your back rests against.

The bit your arse sits on comes out first. There are two bolts (10 or 12mm, I cant remember) located behind where your calf muscle would be if you were sitting in the seat. One either side of the seat.

Once they are out, there are two clips holding it in aswell, these clips are under the seat roughly in line with the bolts. Put your hands under the seat by each clip and pull up HARD! May take a few attempts especially if they are virgin clips!

Slide that part of the seat out.

Now for the vertical part of the seat, two 10mm bolts at the bottom of it, far right and far left. From the bottom, push the seat up (its on 3 upward facing hooks).

Now thats out, look for japanese money, fuel reciepts, chopsticks, insects etc I have found all these in Jap cars

Ok, The plastic panels covering the C and D pillar need to be loosened aswell as the part below it (where a passenger would rest their elbow), there is a screw behind the seatbelt and two screws in the things that people always hand clothes from. Otherwise just give the panels a pull and they will unclip. The reason these panels have to be removed is the C and D pillar panels have hooks going into the sides of the tray.

Now they are loosesned, the tray can be lifted, it is again held on by clips only, slide your hand under the tray and wedge the clips off. You need to bend the tray a little to get it out, but its no major.

There is usually a fine black mesh under the speaker grilles, remove it as it has become very brittle and if left there, can drop onto the speaker and into the voice coil, killing the speaker.

I generally remove the entire spacer with the speaker in it, instead of trying to piss around with screwing a speaker in with a gap of a couple of inches. You need a stubby phillips and a 10mm ring spanner to get the factory spacers out.

Look and then laugh at the 'quality' of your factory speakers, there is no surround left and the paper cone is brittle as hell!

Unscrew the factory speaker from the spacer and replace with your new quality item

You need 6" (or 6 1/2", same thing) to be a perfect fit.

With the wiring, I cant see in my own car what colours I have because my two way speakers come with a sperate crossover so I have aftermarket wiring visable. But I can tell you from experience that black or black with a trace colour will be negative ...... blue, orange, green, brown etc will be positive. -(If you do a search and find this thread do NOT take those colours as gospel, Nissan changed them, alot! This is a similar car of a similar year)- It is important you get these colours correct otherwise your speakers will be out of phase and sound like utter sh|t.

Depending on the new speakers, they may not fit in the metal part of the tray as it isnt a round hole, its mostly round with a straight edge. (you will see what I mean, hard to explain) If you have a fairly deep speaker, it wont fit, all you need to do is gently persuade the metal into shape with a hammer .

I think thats pretty much it.....

Just read this backwards and you have the instructions of how to put the car back together

Hope that helps dude!

[JCMarshall_Law]

I vote the last post gets put into the tutorials, thanks heaps for that, I'll be doing this soon and that advice will be really helpfull.

[BADHAB|T]

No problem at all!

Name a car and I should be able to give lots of info about it, audio wise

[MsG_ChRiS]

woah thanx heaps for the response guys

that will be heaps of help

thanx again (",)

[ASYLUM]

so do you need any tools to wire the speakers up etc?

solder, clips or electrical tape?

pls excuse newbie audio question

[mitchy_]

if you use the stock wire, it already has the female tab connectors on it, which should match to the male tabs on your new speakers (cant really remember, i ran new thicker wiring for mine) but other than that.. there is not alot too it

[BADHAB|T]

#2 phillips + subby phillips

Socket set or ring spanners (to get the factory spacer out +rear seat)

Speaker terminals (you can cut these off the length of wire you get when you buy new speakers)

Facory teminals will not match.

Something to join the new short length of wire (with terminals) onto factory wiring. (solder, crimps).

Get the phasing right!

[ASYLUM]

cheers guys

getting a new head unit, splits and some rears to revamp the stock stereo in my 33 and want to make sure i have everything before i go ahead with the install

of course.. i'll have to learn to solder first

[-Dukes-]

cheers guys

getting a new head unit, splits and some rears to revamp the stock stereo in my 33 and want to make sure i have everything before i go ahead with the install

of course.. i'll have to learn to solder first

Just use the iron to heat up the copper on the wire and apply the solder, easy as that