Jump to content
SAU Community

R33: Rear Strut Bar

performance-wise

By performance-wise,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted

rear strut bars on R33 GTST's mount in the boot, not actually "on top" of the struts.

If you open the boot and remove the the cover that is hiding the battery etc. and look at the back of the strut towers you will see two threaded "bolts" on each strut tower. Mine have little PVC hoods on them so yours might as well. Pull the hoods/covers off the bolts and this is where the strut bar attaches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I checked my boot first and the tower bolts are not accessed from there.

You have to go through the back seat and they are located under the parcel tray.

Its definitely them, they have the rubber boot covering them and it looks like you'd have to hack away at some steel to fit the bar??

Mine is a '93 aswell :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did that already and they can only be accessed through the back seat.

From the bootside you can see the outside of the tower and their is a steal plate from the strut tower to the parcel tray in front of where the tower bolts are located. so they cannot be accessed from the boot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted
I did that already and they can only be accessed through the back seat.

From the bootside you can see the outside of the tower and their is a steal plate from the strut tower to the parcel tray in front of where the tower bolts are located. so they cannot be accessed from the boot.

I have circled the 2 bolts (with boots on) in the picture...same deal on the other side.

If your strut bar doesn't fit up to these points then I suspect you have the wrong type of bar (possibly a GTR one).

strut-bolts.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted

aaah - those bolts :Oops:

so installing on those bolts will help chasis rigidity then as in the front? Did nissan include those bolts for this purpose? Shame they didnt include any nuts aswell!

I was thinking that you had to install them on the top of the strut towers like on the front. And of course the only way to access the rear tower bolts is from behind the backseat.

Thanks for your help - much appreciated :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted
aaah - those bolts :Oops:  

so installing on those bolts will help chasis rigidity then as in the front?  Did nissan include those bolts for this purpose? Shame they didnt include any nuts aswell!

According to SydneyKid the rear strut bars aren't as important as the front ones, but they must add some extra rigidity.

The rear strut bars were a factory option I believe so, yes, Nissan intended the bolts for this purpose.

If you can't find a suitable nut at your local hardware try somewhere like Coventry fasteners.

I was thinking that you had to install them on the top of the strut towers like on the front. And of course the only way to access the rear tower bolts is from behind the backseat.

Thanks for your help - much appreciated  :cheers:

No worries :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kip
      Odometer LCD is Intermittently Wonky

      By Kip · Posted

      Yay. I'm the lucky one who got the bad LCD. Only 138,000km or so on this car.  🙄 On a non-Nissan car I have, similar issues were related to failing cold solder joints. At least with the Stag, I'm not losing my speedometer, odometer, gas gauge, and temp gauge. I guess I get to go into the dash at some point. I'm not overly concerned about it, but it's annoying. Seems to be happening more frequently in the past couple weeks too. Not sure if that's the summer heat causing hassles or the problem genuinely getting worse. Bleh.
    • Duncan
      Odometer LCD is Intermittently Wonky

      By Duncan · Posted

      Hi mate, I have never had an issue with the odometer in mine (450,000+ klm now) and can't remember another post about it. Still, your description of the likely cause sounds spot on, so an electrics repair is probably the next stop.
    • LjB123
      Custom Exhaust Questions - RB25DET Neo

      By LjB123 · Posted

      Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
    • joshuaho96
      My BMW 335i

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.
    • Kip
      Odometer LCD is Intermittently Wonky

      By Kip · Posted

      Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.  
×
×
  • Create New...