Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do R32GTST brake calipers, rotors and pads all fit straight up to a Cefiro?? or is modifications required to the brackets and brake lines? I recal reading that many ppl run this setup, although just want to confirm there isn't any stuffing around with adapter plates etc. I've already got the 5 stud hubs on the car......

I'm in a urgent need to know basis as i've been unable to source 5 stud rotors (or blanks) for the stock cefiro brake setup as seen HERE and am looking at resorting to upgrading the whole setup to R32 GTST brakes.

Cheers

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70882-r32gtst-brake-upgrade-for-a31-ceffy/
Share on other sites

they bolt straight up...but a31/s13 brakes use the banjo bollts for the brake lines, and skyline/z32 etc calipers use a compression fitting type line...you can still use the banjo bolts though, althoguh it's too long, so if you dont wanna cut the bolt, just use a few more copper washers...just need to do it up tight. it's a good time to upgrade to braided lines for skylines :spank: just like i've done

yup well it all went well. all bolted up fine. and yup just took the banjo bolts down to ABS to get it cut, easier then me stuffing them up. got a feeling i might need to upgrade the brake booster some day to give a more firmer feeling, how many of you who have done this conversion have upgrading thier booster aswel? or did u just leave it? But other then that was a pretty easy job.

Cheers

Ben

  • 3 weeks later...
they bolt straight up...but a31/s13 brakes use the banjo bollts for the brake lines, and skyline/z32 etc calipers use a compression fitting type line...you can still use the banjo bolts though, althoguh it's too long, so if you dont wanna cut the bolt, just use a few more copper washers...just need to do it up tight. it's a good time to upgrade to braided lines for skylines :D just like i've done

Where did you get the braided lines from? Off the shelf or custom made? How much did they cost?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...