Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When initialisiting the SAFC and you go into the

etc -> Sensor Type -> Hotwire

Do you set both the "In" and "Out" sensors to the sensor number or just the "In". I set just the "In" and it was idling rough... Also in the "Car Select" when you choose 6 cylinders which day does the arrow point? Diagonal upright or downright?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7103-safc-initialisation-questions/
Share on other sites

400HP, by referring to the SAFC setup chart, if In/Out sensor numbers are different, the manual will give two numbers i.e. 2/4.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Yeh I'm very happy about it. Just need to get it tuned a bit now.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

On the manual it says the GTR is a HW-3 so I'm assuming that its just Hotwire with sensor number 3? But I guess this must be it cos when i set it any other way it almost stalls at idle.

Yeap, 3 is the sensor number which must be set into In & Out settings.

Unless you are doing a GT-R single airflow meter conversion, then In & Out would be different values. That's what I read in SAFC manual and they give an example on a GT-R n 300ZX I think...

Can i install a 2nd hand SAFC and safely run the car before having it tuned.....Does the SAFC have a default mode of operation where it makes no change to the airflow signal or does it remember the previous owners setting??

Where do most people put the unit, i have a r33, thinking about modifying the small holder benieth the climate control.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Yes thats exactly what I've done. All you need to do is "Initialise" the SAFC. Theres a setting for this. You then make sure it knows the car type, the number of inputs and outputs and just leave the correction at 0.

This means it wil read in Aiflow and feed it back to ECU as is without correction. Just make sure you initialise it.

Hey Guys, my installation drawing shows 6 wires,

red = power

Green = Rpm

Brown = Ground 1

Black = Ground 2

Yellow = Airflow out

White = Airflow In

On the Ecu drawing for the R33 it list a throttle signal.

Question

Is the Throttle signal needed, if so, which color wire is attached to it.....

Help needed asap as l am in the middle of the install..

Thankyou

I don't understand your problem. If you've managed to do all the other wires its exactly the same. Follow the ECU diagram and intercept the throttle with your SAFC wire.

I'm not sure if it will run without it. I assume if you've already wired the airflow in and out that the SAFC is expecting the throttle reading too.

my install guide didn't tell me ANY of the colours of the ECU wires.... it only had colours of the SAFC wires. From each ECU pin there should only be ONE wire.

So all you do is locate the pin.... see which wire is coming out the back of it.... and tap into that with the SAFC wire.

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

guys, help please.

im installing my new s-afc today. only problem is where the wiring diagram(ecu pinout) shows my rpm signal wire on the ecu, there is no wire in this spot??????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...