Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Exactly, Jerry. There is more to it than just max power. I bet you that 33 makes more average power than one with a higher peak power figure.

You are right Charlie high average power is what you want not just peak .

The other thing is if we take it to another well known dyno it will make around 380 kw on all 4 .

Another vote for Ben at Bel's here :rofl:. Like wrxhoon peak power figures aren't the most important thing . My car was originally tuned by one of the above made 268rwkw on a 2wd dyno dynamics after the boys at Bel worked there magic it now makes 275rwkw by 4500rpm's at the same boost ;).

But like said times and trap speed are the real indication and the car managed to better it's previouse time on a 15deg hotter night and with a slipping clutch so thats what counts . Will be out there again hopefully soon and run the car to it's full potential .

Who pays the fine when they get caught speeding on the street doing a road tune?

At least they have one guy driving ( usualy Eric ) while Ben tunes it .

When i was in japan i saw this guy going out on his own with the laptop at 8 o'clock at night to tune this GTR on his own , scary .

ok guys who are where are BEL???

As for SAS....I will never ever go there...my brother can tell you all about the story of his 180sx after it got tuned at SAS.. Jim at CRD had to fix it...

As for Advan...know their GTRs do they???? I don't know about that...my mate had a problem with his 4wd system in his GTR and he took it there...They made him buy over $1000 in parts for nothing...Also gave him a big bill for their "diagnosing" after not being able to fix it. He took it somewhere else who found the problem in half a day..turned out be some be old worn wires....

Anyway I deceided to stick with who I know and got the car tuned at CRD yesterday...

so the car was tuned at CRD did you stay with it and watch what Jim did? did you have a lot of work to have set up like cams? cam gears? PFC? or was it just a retune for something minor?

I personally am going to go to CRD but will need someone that knows GTSS turbos and tomei cams on the GTR....

BEL's road tune is ~ $360-400. Dyno tune can be arranged as well - they have to hire at the moment, though that will change when they move. My previous car with PowerFC was tuned by them, and current car with HKS FCon SZ also tuned by BEL. they are the only ones who will ever touch my ECU :D

www.belgarage.com.au

BEL's road tune is ~ $360-400.  Dyno tune can be arranged as well - they have to hire at the moment, though that will change when they move. My previous car with PowerFC was tuned by them, and current car with HKS FCon SZ also tuned by BEL.  they are the only ones who will ever touch my ECU :D  

 

www.belgarage.com.au

more info on the F cov tune plz?

how much?

They tuned my R33 GTR with Power FC, JUN Cam gears, stock airbox, 3inch exhaust and hi-flow turbos. At the moment its got the boost restrictor removed so its running 14psi. It made 225-230kw@4wheels. Jim advised that the turbos aren't in their effeciency range till above 16psi. As a quick test he ran about 17psi through them and the result was 254kw@4wheels. He reckons the car will make alot more and so next time I go there, they'll fit the Apexi Power FC electronic boost controller, 550cc injectors and retune. There will be no charge for the retune...I'm happy at this boost level anyway but it will be interesting to see what he can safely get from it - aiming somewhere between 260-270kw@4wheels.

so the jury is still out? I am sitting on the fence of a BEL or CRD tune.... where do BEL do a dyno tune? and what sort of $$$ are we talking to the combo road + dyno?

I just want someone that knows there crapola and can sort out a car with a lot of new mods...

its going to have

GTSS turbos

greddy pipes

700cc injectors

blitz boost comp

tomei 260 260 poncom cams

RB20 AFMS

so it is going to take a switched on digger to get it all running in sync :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...