Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a vast choice of 'after market intercoolers' in the market place. If one was to look at replacing their intercooler, what would be one of the better choices? Is a 'bar and plate' configuration superior to a 'tube and fin'? The second half of the question is - has anyone had any experience in relation to the efficiency of one make of cooler over another?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71151-what-type-of-intercooler/
Share on other sites

Hi Marc2, plenty written on this, maybe do a search for more details. My 20 cents worth follows;

There are 4 important things to consider when choosing an intercooler;

1. Cooling the inlet airflow (this effects the temperaturee of the inlet air)

2. The effect of the intercooler on the radiator (this effects the water temp of the engine)

3. The efficiency in passing inlet airflow through the intercooler (this is a measure of how much pressure loss there is across the core)

4. It's internal volume (this effects the throttle response of the engine)

No one intercooler is superior in all 4 areas, they all are compromises. An example, a 600 X 300 X 100 bar and plate is good in #1 and #3 but bad in #2 and very bad in #4. The standard Stagea intercooler is good in #4 and #2, not so good in #1 and very bad in #3.

I have chosen a standard R34GTT intercooler, to keep #2 and #4 at good, improve #3 a lot and improve #1 a little bit. That set of compromises suites my Stagea usage.

On the race car we use a 600 X 300 X 100 tube and fin. It is good in #1 and #2, OK in #4 and we have a big enough turbo not to be concerned about #3.

My personal favourite all rounder is the standard R33/34 GTR intercooler. Up to 300 rwkw they are very hard to beat.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Hi Marc2, plenty written on this, maybe do a search for more details.  My 20 cents worth follows;

There are 4 important things to consider when choosing an intercooler;

1. Cooling the inlet airflow (this effects the temperaturee of the inlet air)

2. The effect of the intercooler on the radiator (this effects the water temp of the engine)

3. The efficiency in passing inlet airflow through the intercooler (this is a measure of how much pressure loss there is across the core)

4. It's internal volume (this effects the throttle response of the engine)

No one intercooler is superior in all 4 areas, they all are compromises.  An example, a 600 X 300 X 100 bar and plate is good in #1 and #3 but bad in #2 and very bad in #4.  The standard Stagea intercooler is good in #4 and #2, not so good in #1 and very bad in #3.

I have chosen a standard R34GTT intercooler, to keep #2 and #4 at good, improve #3 a lot and improve #1 a little bit.  That set of compromises suites my Stagea usage.

On the race car we use a 600 X 300 X 100 tube and fin.   It is good in #1 and #2, OK in #4 and we have a big enough turbo not to be concerned about #3.

My personal favourite all rounder is the standard R33/34 GTR intercooler.  Up to 300 rwkw they are very hard to beat.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

SK,

You are most helpful with your timely repsonses and the information provided - greatly appreciated.

Have sent a PM.

regards,

Marc2

Another FMIC question... looking at the Blitz LM Intercooler kit for Stageas coz its on sale with Nengun for $1090. However from my understanding (limited!) its best to get a FMIC that doesnt return the piping UNDER the intercooler (a sharp 180 degree bent pipe isnt best airflow apparently?)... can anyone work out from this picture if these Blitz intercooler kits are the kind that has the piping return under the intercooler, or if its the better setup with piping that heads up over the top?

nengun-product-129.jpg

Another FMIC question... looking at the Blitz LM Intercooler kit for Stageas coz its on sale with Nengun for $1090.  However from my understanding (limited!) its best to get a FMIC that doesnt return the piping UNDER the intercooler (a sharp 180 degree bent pipe isnt best airflow apparently?)... can anyone work out from this picture if these Blitz intercooler kits are the kind that has the piping return under the intercooler, or if its the better setup with piping that heads up over the top?

nengun-product-129.jpg

I guess the second part to this question is - if this kit IS the type that returns under the intercooler - how "preferable" are we talking - is this type that returns under the intercooler just not worth doing - or just not AS good as the other piping set-up... it just seems a good price - and I'm after value for money rather than the absolute BEST setup.

;)

i would say that one is not the return under as if you see the piping for the under ones either have a really sharp bend like 180 degree one and i have seen some IC's that actually have an outlet pipe sticking out the bottom of the IC not out the side like most converional ic's

Thanks Leech - u r correct... it was funny but I answered my own question searching through all the Stagea pictures I downloaded months ago before deciding to buy - didnt remember downloading this one - but it shows the Blitz Stagea intercooler its not one with piping that returns under the FMIC lol

blitzic.jpeg

:rofl:

I have the return under intercooler type, its 250 x 600 x 76. the best thing about this kit was not having to cut a massive hole in the car to fit piping. i had a thread about it a while back, it should still be around if you look. i took a few pictures of the process. it's a direct bolt on kit too, so no mucking around with piping. i noticed an improvement in engine response straight away, and havn't had any trouble with overheating due to the radiator being covered a bit more.

hope this helps with your choice.

If you stumble on this post SK... couple of questions for ya or anyone else with some info Id appreciate on 2 things

1. SK, you mentioned somewhere I read that one of your favourite all-round intercoolers (best combo of trade-offs) was the actual GTR intercoolers. Just wondering how easily you think these would be to fit to Stags. And as part of that question - is there much difference between R32/R33/R34 intercoolers that would make any version more adaptable. I might be able to pick up a cheap R32GTR FMIC - but not sure how easily Ill be able to fit and pipe it up to the Series 2 Stag?

2. Regarding Piping set-up options (left pipe return under FMIC style vs up and round head already discussed)... but i am wondering if the most direct flowing + least amount of piping setup, if you can be bothered and got $, is by getting a new plenum with a front facing throttle so that the left side piping from the FMIC can just go straight up to it... piccy here:

attachment.php?attachmentid=35716

any thoughts on this type of set-up??? Or somewhere I can be pointed to for lengthy discussion and info on this sort of stuff to learn for myself?

Thanks heaps!

:D

Adam

If you stumble on this post SK... couple of questions for ya or anyone else with some info Id appreciate on 2 things

1.  SK, you mentioned somewhere I read that one of your favourite all-round intercoolers (best combo of trade-offs) was the actual GTR intercoolers.  Just wondering how easily you think these would be to fit to Stags.  And as part of that question - is there much difference between R32/R33/R34 intercoolers that would make any version more adaptable.  I might be able to pick up a cheap R32GTR FMIC - but not sure how easily Ill be able to fit and pipe it up to the Series 2 Stag?

2.  Regarding Piping set-up options (left pipe return under FMIC style vs up and round head already discussed)... but i am wondering if the most direct flowing + least amount of piping setup, if you can be bothered and got $, is by getting a new plenum with a front facing throttle so that the left side piping from the FMIC can just go straight up to it... piccy here:

attachment.php?attachmentid=35716  

any thoughts on this type of set-up???  Or somewhere I can be pointed to for lengthy discussion and info on this sort of stuff to learn for myself?

Thanks heaps!

:rofl:  

Adam

Hi Adam, I stumbled......

1. The R32 intercooler is supposed to be slightly less efficient in internal airflow than the R33 or R34. The external dimensions and appearance are almost identical however. The generally accepted number is 300 rwkw from the R33/34 until we start to run into noticeable restriction. But I have run 420+rwkw though an R32 GTR intercooler and it was pretty damn good, better than many aftemarket coolers. However I was using a turbo and engine configuration that didn't require a lot of boost to make that sort of power.

I don't know what power target you are aiming for but I would be totally comfortable in using an R32 GTR intercooler up to 300 rwkw.

2. Oh dear! The old pipework question, I reckon the most often asked one on the forum. I have tested moved throttle bodies on standard plenums and the air distribution is terrible, personaly I wouldn't even think about it. If your power target is over 300 rwkw (that means forged rods and pistons) then the Greddy plenum is the one I would use. RIPS, UAS and Sub Zero have fabricated designs but they cost almost the same as the Greddy.

If you are sticking with standard internals, then the 120 degree bend at the throttle body style of intercooler pipework is the go. It takes a noticeable amount of volume out of the pipework (compared to behind the radiator or under the intercooler styles) without compromising the inlet distrbution.

I first saw this design on the Gibson R31 GTSR and over the years we have fitted it to a number of cars and it has been copied by quite a few pipework fabricators.

Gibson_R31_GTSR_Pipework.jpg

This is the latest generation

NN_120_Degree_Front.JPG

If you want to know more, I suggst doing a search, I have posted (numerous times) the calculations for the pipework volume and amount of delay in throttle response from various designs.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

I have a gtr cooler fitted to mine. Pipework was bought off this forum for around $500 making the whole thing around $850. With that being said I probably would have prefered (now) to go for a hybrid kit as there is less stuffing around. I had to remove my washer bottle as well that is besides being annoying - illeagal. It did allow me to run the boost I wanted too and has improved the performance of the car at the end of the day.

Ken

Hey SK or anyone else of course lol - one last piping question... Ive spent 2 days searching as you suggested, which has turned up loads of extra info - but not found out the exact answer I am looking for about these Blitz kits.

Know anything about where these Blitz kits (made specifically for the Neo6 set-up in the stags, and the equivalent kit for the R34GTT) run their pipework? Has any1 ever seen one or a pic of one hooked up to an R34 GTT?. I think it joins up to the stock pipework, but cant be sure... if it doesn then if it doesnt return UNDER the cooler - where does it go - behind? Does that still give a 180 deg bend??. But yeah - I cant work out exactly where it'll run... up and behind radiator or all up the passenger side existing pipes etc.

I am only heading towards this kit because the enquiries i've made with workshops over here about custom piping would mean cutting into the plastic Neo6 engine cover, fan baldes, removing stock air-box etc. If the Blitz kit works around everything in the engine bay without doing a straight 180 deg bend out of the FMIC outlet then I might just go with that...

:cheers:

Hey SK or anyone else of course lol - one last piping question... Ive spent 2 days searching as you suggested, which has turned up loads of extra info - but not found out the exact answer I am looking for about these Blitz kits.

Know anything about where these Blitz kits (made specifically for the Neo6 set-up in the stags, and the equivalent kit for the R34GTT) run their pipework?  Has any1 ever seen one or a pic of one hooked up to an R34 GTT?.  I think it joins up to the stock pipework, but cant be sure... if it doesn then if it doesnt return UNDER the cooler - where does it go - behind? Does that still give a 180 deg bend??.  But yeah - I cant work out exactly where it'll run... up and behind radiator or all up the passenger side existing pipes etc.

I am only heading towards this kit because the enquiries i've made with workshops over here about custom piping would mean cutting into the plastic Neo6 engine cover, fan baldes, removing stock air-box etc.   If the Blitz kit works around everything in the engine bay without doing a straight 180 deg bend out of the FMIC outlet then I might just go with that...

:cheers:

The Blitz kit must be a return under/behind the intercooler style of pipework. It would be impossible for it to be any other design as they all need to have something cut. At the very least other pipework designs need the GTR stamped hole in the RHS innner guard to be cut out (same as a GTR has).

You should be aware that there is a Apexi GT-spec intercooler kit that does the same, I have seen one on a R34GTT.

:rant:

Woohoo - thanks Burns and SK... finally know where that dam piping goes ... doesnt go directly back along the bottom of the core like others - but from your pics heads backwards and comes along behind the core...CHEERS !!

Hey Burns - so this looks like it could be a relatively easy Do It Yourselfer???

Thanks guys - most helpful!

:headspin:

It looks like a reasonably easy install. All the brackets for the pipes have slotted bolt holes and the piping looks like it goes together easily enough. The cooler its self looks like it mounts on 3 brackets 2 on the bottom and 1 on top. The only tricky bits would be trimming the bumper reinforcement and a little bit of the bar bellow the indicators for the pipes to fit but should not require any more than marking it out and careful trimming with a jig saw with a steady hand.

I think you will probably have to do away with you air box too. Mine cam with a pod installed and I can’t see how an air box would have fitted in there. I’m still trying to work out how I’m going to fit a cold air partition in.

front2.JPG

1246RIMG0896.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...