Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Steve,

Even clearer now, just like putting glasses on. I'm running at the Motorplex on Wednesday, I'll fit the pinapples after that and then compare my times.

Anyone with info on running with camber? The R33's do have camber bolts don't they?

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Skyzerr33,

Thanks for clearing that up, cheers mate.

Rob77,

I didn't say it didn't work for him, but I was told in general that it was a waste of time. Does anyone else run low pressures? If so what pressure and what tyres are they on?

See'ya :burnout:

have drag raced for quite a few years and running low tyre pressures is the way to do things. I forgot to let my tyres down last time and I was lucky enough to meet a bloke with a tyre guage.

19/20 psi or lower for most tyres. Your sidewalls will stay on the rim as long as you don't try going around corners real fast.

Zoom can kiss my ass! A sample size of at least 30 is required to make something statistically valid (though not necessarily absolutley true) I wish I had a dollar for every time something is 'proven' by a test involving 3 or 4 cars, products or runs.

Heyas,

I Have JIC Coilovers and my ride is as hard as all hell! due to the firmness of the coilovers and the hardness will that be an advatnage when i decide to do the quarter? Prob would stop a bit of squatting at the start fo the drag but would it in any way help out wiht wheelspin or would the cradle kit and pineaples still be the way to go?

I guess everyone has their own thoughts on tyre pressure, but personally, I don't think lower pressure on street tyres will make much of a difference.. but of course, there's so many different tyres, and every one runs different rim width and diameter sizes so who knows..... what's good pressure for someone, may prove to be slower for others.

I first run (out of 8) gave me my second quickest time. This was on standard tyre press of 34psi, and I'm pretty sure that my quickest time was only better because I was starting to get the launches down pat. I won't bother lowering pressure next time.

my 2c.

This is just like the burnout, no burnout argument.

I was doin burnouts before each run last wednesday assuming it was giving me traction. Since then i've heard of many people that it makes f#ck all diference on street tyres. But on sunday I started off the day with no burnouts but found first gear just kept spinning. So I tried doin the burnouts again and ran 13.74.

Originally posted by rob77

I couldnt be assed connecting my scanner and loading up the software (cos I havent reloaded it since I re-did windows). So I took a photo of it.

a photo slacker

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

Originally posted by skyzerr33

yes i know

but torque is related to acceleration

when your torque starts to drop off is when you want change gears otherwise you'll start to loose momentom. that why i say you have to know your car

Change gears around your horsepower peak buddy.

Before or after depends on how sharp the fall off is and what the gear ratios are like.

Rob: as above.

:P

Originally posted by skyzerr33

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

You also need to take into account where the change will put you in the rev range for the next gear. No use changing at 5500 if it puts you in a crap place in the next gear.

You should experiment according to the dyno sheet and find a balance.

Originally posted by rob77

Managed to pull 273.5PS @ 6608rpm on the rear wheels, using Speedworks new DynaPak dyno.

With the mods you have, 273 sounds close to the hp you'd have at the engine, not the wheels. Are Speedworks sure the dyno wasn't set to estimate power at the engine?

in that case I can't help but think you have other mods done to your car than what you're telling us

also why are cars in the wrong classes?? like has everyone had an engine conversion to something drastically larger?

eg ur in 3401cc - 4500cc

what engine u running??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...