Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I just had a look in the boot of my R33 Series 2, where the sway bar is in, there is a cordoned off area (where the rear shelf for the rear spkrs are).

I lifted some of the felt/cardboard stuff away and saw there was a 2nd battery, larger than the one in the engine bay.

Is this standard?

Cheers,

Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7119-r33-series-2-2nd-car-battery-stock/
Share on other sites

the fun begins when you try explaining it to the cops that it was like that from the factory, i had to argue my way outta a defect for it, and the cop really wanted to book me, didnt matter there was guys across the rd doin burnouts,

i was a bit surprised when i found it out myself tho :D

hehehe... of course, but what would a cop know really? unless they fully study up on the cars they are doing over. Doesn't happen much in melbourne

Even if it wasn't - I'm not sure why it wouldn't be roadworthy? I mean plenty of 4WD have a 2nd battery rigged up in the boot for winch or whatever.

it isnt illegal in any way, and every excuse the guy was giving me i pointed out that he was wrong

things like, its not secure... so i shook the battery with both hands and the car moved around.

then i pointed out it was sitting in a catch tray and had a drain tube as well, he came up with its not in a sealed enclosure, i pointed out it was a sealed battery (no filling holes) and that both terminals had insulated covers on em, and he basicly carried on making himself look more like a child who wasnt getting his way rather than a dignified police officer.

in the end i just said look heres the rego papers, the transport auth looked the car over thismorning and said it was fine, so theres no reason for you to defect me as that was 4 hours ago.

(this happened on the night i got the car) i believe ive posted the story once before, but yeh, it just surprised me the length this guy was willing to go and argue about it, i dont even think he had any right to command me to lift my bonnet in the first place

edit :- sorry to hijack the thread ;):D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...