Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello

i am an avid nissan skyline fan but i do not think that i am experianced enough to get a skyline mainly because of cost and experiance. i am 17 and have just got my P's and i am car hunting. what would be a good car to practise on. also i would like to learn how to drag and drift. i would also like to know where i might be able to go to see some drift events in victoria.

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71477-brand-new-car/
Share on other sites

I was unaware that you could get your P's before your 18th birthday in Victoria.

If you really want a Skyline, get a 31.

They are solid, easy to find parts for, can be made to get up and boogey, and you'll find something suitable for under $5k.

Regular drag and drift events are held at Calder park.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71477-brand-new-car/#findComment-1317986
Share on other sites

how did u get your P's at 17 :|?

If you like drift the best then you should go for a 180SX or a S13 Silvia.

But if you must settle for a skyline i think the R32 would be mad for drifting. You could get one cheaply imported from japan. The only problem would be insurance. This is where SKY031's idea is better with the R31 because it will be cheaper to get insurance...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71477-brand-new-car/#findComment-1318007
Share on other sites

I say good on you for using your head and realising u arent schui when u start driving. Maybe wait until u got some experience in decent power RWD b4 getting too geed about drifting though

depending on ur budget I suppose I would have to say you might be able to get a more nimble and fun package if u go with the S13s. Black top sr20det is the pick or even a CA18DET for less and they are great fun, bit lighter than the cheaper skylines (however if u had more $$ also for mods more potential from R32/33). 180SX looks better me reckons (than S13 silvia)

Im like you but I love the skylines and RBs so I got the best of both worlds - RB20 in 180sx -sounds much better and great top end in lighter chassis. If u are a skyline nut also u could put any of the RB engines in later on!!

anyway lots of good ways to go just my ideas :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71477-brand-new-car/#findComment-1318065
Share on other sites

r33 gts, is what i got last year for my first car... r32 gts is quite aiight too...

hat goes off to ya, for thinkin abt the future and insurance, and knowing that these cars

drive slightly differently to others...

i made the same choice to go n/a, and i'm loving it - all my mates are spewin over the

insurance and fuel prices, inability to handle boost, turbo problems, etc :)

that said an; r31, r32 gts, r33gts, 180sx, s13 are all very good beginning cars - and

with the money you save on insurance/fuel in the first few years it'll be even better

when you can throw in a fully worked RB, SR or something even crazier.

eug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71477-brand-new-car/#findComment-1318197
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...