Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes I have one of those and it works very well . I got the Haltech people in Taren Point (Syd) to test mine along side a Uego probe of theirs some years ago (on their static 1GGEU test engine) and the readings were virtually identical .

I used it for years on an Autroniced FJ20ET powered Bluebird with great results . The Haltuner is not the tool to tune engines on the bleeding edge , but it has more than enough scope to tell you if the mixtures are reasonable or getting out of hand . Its a fantastic thing to have permanently installed to give you an idea whats happening ALL the time . If I was made of money I would have the Autronic air fuel ratio meter with the Bosch 4 wire probe , people trust them and they give a numeric rather than LED read out .

For the cost the Haltuner is probably hard to beat .

Cheers A .

Yes I have one of those and it works very well . I got the Haltech people in Taren Point (Syd) to test mine along side a Uego probe of theirs some years ago (on their static 1GGEU test engine) and the readings were virtually identical .  

I used it for years on an Autroniced FJ20ET powered Bluebird with great results . The Haltuner is not the tool to tune engines on the bleeding edge , but it has more than enough scope to tell you if the mixtures are reasonable or getting out of hand . Its a fantastic thing to have permanently installed to give you an idea whats happening ALL the time . If I was made of money I would have the Autronic air fuel ratio meter with the Bosch 4 wire probe , people trust them and they give a numeric rather than LED read out .  

For the cost the Haltuner is probably hard to beat .

Cheers  A .

Yeah well the cost of mine was pretty good, cost me nothin :headspin:

I also got the O2 senor to go with it but doesnt look like your normal o2 senors, it hard to eplain what it looks like so ill take a photo and post it up. Im thinking it might be a 4 wire probe like your talking about???

So you think it would be a good idea to install it to keep an eye on things when engine goes back in after rebuild?

Thank guys ;)

Well i looked at these the other day briefly.

As soon as i seen the price, something like $300 odd, i knew it had to be narrow band based.

And further research on the net basically confirmed this by owners of this tool.

Lastly i found this on the ECU manual from Haltech relating to their haltech haltuner

The Haltuner is an inexpensive air/fuel ratio indicator that gives a full-scale deflection from rich to lean over a display of 30 bar segments. It is compatible with all Oxygen Sensors that output a 0-1V and can be configured upon request for other sensor ranges.

Since when did widebands come with a 0-1V output.

Sure they thing can read a 0-5V wideband, but you have to get Haltech to reprogram the bloody thing.

Basically you wouldn't want to use it for any sort of forced induction tuning, unless you know it is setup for wideband sensors. Then you have the heater elements inside widebands that have to be accurately controlled for accurate readings. I somehow think the $300 Haltuner lacks some of this logic.

I don't want to get involved in an argument here but I know what I saw with my own eyes . The NTC probe I have I bought with the E6 computer in about 90 - 91 . Much later I bought the Haltuner which if memory serves me correct was around $235 trade - not including the probe which I already had . The NTC probe is heated and I think four wire . As I mentioned I got it tested in tandem with EFI Technology's own Uego equipment because I suspected my probe was poisoned .

If you can find him Justin is the man to ask , I believe he left EFI Technology some years back to start his own aftermarket EFI fitting and tuning business .

Anyhow I tuned that FJ20ET with 550 cc injectors to give 27-28 mpg , good hot and cold starting and smooth transitions - good manners and no closed loop correction . I put a lot of that down to the Autronic SMC's fine resolution and charge temperature management , but it didn't tune itself (pre autotune) and the Haltuner was the only AFR measurement device used .

Having said this I do not suggest people should tune their own cars on the street , I had a bad experience with a chassis dyno operator who cooked my no 4 piston and was using Autronic/Bosch 4 Wire equipment - cost me 5 G's . After that I did my own using MK1 eyes and ears and a Haltuner . The car was daily driven and it was in my best interest to get good fuel consumption . I also switched to a button (padle) clutch and as everyone who uses them knows engine response and part throttle torque needs to be the best it can particularly with lowish 8.5 CR . As I said before it worked well for me so was good value .

My opinion only , cheers A .

My 20 cents.....

The LM1 wide band A/F ratio meter is a better buy for not much more cost. Noting that the cost of wide and fast lambda sensors has dropped considerably as there use becomes more common. Ditto the cost of meters for utilising the lamda sensors.

Like discopotato03, I have tuned a car using a narrow band lambda sensor for maximum fuel economy, idle and off idle stability. The A/F ratio I was aiming for (for best economy) was in the range that the "narrow" lambda sensor covered with some accuracy (around stoich). Also the lambda sensor was "slow", meaning that its reponses to changes in A/F ratios was not instantaneous, it took a little while to record the movement. This is obviously not a problem when tuning for economy.

But (there is always a but), when tuning for power and response, I don't want stoich A/F ratios and the changes are rapid, so I can't use a narrow and slow lambda sensor.:rofl:

The LM1 , I'll do a search on that one . Agree with the high cost of good equipment in the early and mid 90's . My reason for parting with the Haltech and Autronic computers was I wanted something that could load sense via a mass air sensor rather than MAP . I feel there's to many air temp correction advantages to pass up and it seems logical to match air to fuel ratios by mass . I'd like my next car to have some form of AFR meter so I'll see whats around then .

Cheers A .

Hey guys you have missed my point to his thread :) All I wanted to know would it be worth while intalling the haltuner to keep a check on a/f? I have no intention on tuning the car with it and it would be a shitload better than some a/f ratio guage from autometer or something shorly :)

These don't look to bad at all.

Im thinking of getting one shortly just to see what they are like.

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

Unless its accurate, I don't really see how you can keep an eye on anything, I mean a cheap narrow band will show if its gone way lean, or way rich, but chances are what really will happen is the AFR may drop from say 12.0:1 to 13.5:1. And this could be a big concern on a forced induction car. I just don't trust a narrow band to show me that small change instantly.

At the end of the day, if your car is tuned properly, and you don't tinker with it just keep an ear out for detonation.

If you want real accuracy get a wideband.

If you want something a little better then the standard narrow band get the Haltuner and included O2 sensor.

discopotato03, said he used one with great sucess, get one and give it a go. He has had real experience with it. Im just going of the specs and what i have read from users of the tool on other forums.

Let us know how it performs.

I hope we can keep adding to this discussion.

Cheers!

My answer would be yes but they have a new version soon to be released . They are getting a 5 wire Uego probe which will read between 10 and 20:1 AFR and could sell for around $300 (current estimate) . This is good news to me because the LED display should work with it once the narrow band eproms are exchanged for the wide band ones . EFI technology say the sticker on the front of the display is changed for one with numbers ie 10 11 etc up to 20:1 . Does anyone have any details or experience with the Uego 5 wire wide band oxygen sensor ?

Cheers A .

We use the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire, wide-band O2 sensor. Cost is $US80 plus freight (no import duty, good on you Johnny, Feee Trade Agreement). Works perfectly with the Motec, Autronic and LM1 A/F ratio meters.:(

Thanks SK , did a search on the LM1 and found lots of information on the 6066 Bosch probe and some on the NTK version . I'll contact EFI Technology and see which one they're going to use .

Was yours imported from the land of George Dubya or are they available here ?

Thanks A .

We use the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire, wide-band O2 sensor.  Cost is $US80 plus freight (no import duty, good on you Johnny, Feee Trade Agreement).   Works perfectly with the Motec, Autronic and LM1 A/F ratio meters.:)

whats the LM1 A/F Ratio Meter worth and where can you buy them as have been looking for a good a/f ratio meter for tuner for some time

These don't look to bad at all.

Im thinking of getting one shortly just to see what they are like.

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

Unless its accurate, I don't really see how you can keep an eye on anything, I mean a cheap narrow band will show if its gone way lean, or way rich, but chances are what really will happen is the AFR may drop from say 12.0:1 to 13.5:1. And this could be a big concern on a forced induction car. I just don't trust a narrow band to show me that small change instantly.

At the end of the day, if your car is tuned properly, and you don't tinker with it just keep an ear out for detonation.  

If you want real accuracy get a wideband.  

If you want something a little better then the standard narrow band get the Haltuner and included O2 sensor.

discopotato03, said he used one with great sucess, get one and give it a go. He has had real experience with it. Im just going of the specs and what i have read from users of the tool on other forums.

Let us know how it performs.

I hope we can keep adding to this discussion.

Cheers!

has anyone run one of these ? if so how do they rate

Just off the tellingbone , EFI Technology will be using the Bosch LSU Version 4.2 wide band 5 wire oxygen sensor which they say should cost $140 by itself . Their next Haltuner version kit with the above probe should retail for $300-350 complete . I don't know if it will have a memory function or logging facility but may suit some for monitoring or diagnostics .

I haven't used one that had a numeric display , only the LED type but I suppose its the accuracy thats important . I gather most professional level equipment is numeric from what Ive seen .

Cheers A .

Thanks SK , did a search on the LM1 and found lots of information on the 6066 Bosch probe and some on the NTK version . I'll contact EFI Technology and see which one they're going to use .  

Was yours imported from the land of George Dubya or are they available here ?

Thanks  A .

I got mine from the US direct, we have a race team that we supply in Florida and they get stuff for us. Cost around $US370, plus $A30 freight. Innovate Motorsport have an Australian agent, it's on their website.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...