Jump to content
SAU Community

Doc's Newest Toy!!!!!!! mwahahaha


Recommended Posts

That's right..... new toy on the cards......

180sx as per attachment (Pickup this weekend)

+

T3/4 - 0.7 split pulse T3 housing machined for 60mm 11 blade wheel, new core, T04B front cover machined for T04E wheel (Delivered Thursday)

DSC00195.JPG

DSC00200.JPG

DSC00201.JPG

+

Nismo Twin Plate (Pick Up Friday)

+

VOLK 17x8 and 17x9 Rims with full R33 5 Stud Conversion (See second attachment)

+

FMIC, 600HP Pump, 550cc Injectors, & 300ZX AFM (To be purchased Jan)

+

Full VERTEX Widebody Body Kit (Purchase Jan)

+

Dr_Drift Custom RB20ECU with VCT controller

=

:bahaha: :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7169-docs-newest-toy-mwahahaha/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator666

scary...dr drift has a real driftable car... saw that video of the old R32 GTS-T and was quite impressed :burnout:  What happened to that anyway?

its not his first 180...

hey dr.... when u get back??

Boxhead - Through an importer mate.... I'll be marketing them as soon as each mold is available... will keep ya posted with any 32 stuff.

Predator666 - All cars are driftable.... Some more than others.... Sold the R32 cause there wasn't enough head room with sunroof and helmet on. Cheers for the compliment... maybe you'll see the full video and not just that dodgy burnout clip......

Doxx - As above

Inark - HERE Bro - I'm Staying Now.... Back in town on wednesday... My old 180 was pretty nice too... but now where near the rwkw this monster will have mwahahah

Ice180 - Will keep ya posted with pix when available.... Thanks for the twin plate by the way.....

Doc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...