Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12psi with stock ecu youll hit the "too much airflow" level and ecu will retard and cut timing
Only if your engine as a whole is making good power. Considering that I believe the RB25DET AFM is good for over 200rwkw than 99% people on stock turbo's will never have this problem.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71760-r33-boost/#findComment-1326206
Share on other sites

I've been running 10-12 psi for a few years with no problems so far. Same mods as you.

A lot of people have said it's generally "safe" to go up to 14 or so without having the stock turbo cack itself. I've given it a go a few times but it feels like it's "choking" and is actually slower than at 12psi.

Maybe that's the stock intercooler doing its thing?? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71760-r33-boost/#findComment-1326644
Share on other sites

Nah it wont blow up! It will make SHIT all power... lol

Ull be going huh why am i so slow now hehe

what i mean is, it wont be the fuel rate slowing down...rather the ecu will chuck in more fuel to compensate for any pinging (with increasing boost) aswell as retarding the timing....thats why the rate of acceleration decreases

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71760-r33-boost/#findComment-1326743
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...