Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just Some stuff needing to clear

- R33 GTST Fuel Pump (Great upgrade for S13/14 etc) = $70.00

- R33 Stock Cooler = Make an Offer

- R33 TypeM rear pods (EC) = SOLD

- R33 HKB Boss Kit (GTR) = $20.00

- R33 GTST TEIN Coilovers (Height adjustable)(GC)(No leaks) = SOLD

- R33 FibreGlass S1 Vented bonnet (Slightly damaged)(Easy Fix) = SOLD

- Hybrid Cooler (Limited edition GT Spec Bar and Plate)(Wchrome piping)(Completekit)(BrandNew) = $850.00

- S15 custom built 3" dump pipe (GC) = $125.00

- S15 Cat back with chrome cannon (GC) = $150.00

- S15 stock front bar (Red)(GC) = $145.00ono

- S15 stock rear bar (Red)(GC) = $175.00ono

- S15 factory drivers tail light (EC) = $150.00

- Apexi BOV with piping (GC)(Sits next to cooler) = $175.00ono (plus ur stock pipe)

- 180SX SR stock front bar (Purple)(EC) = SOLD

- 180SX Stock rear bar (Purple)(GC) = $100.00ono

- 17" Concept 9 Wheels with GoodYear tyres (Shaddow Chromes)(EC)(215@front, 235@rear)(Multi-fit 4 stud) = $1000.00

- AutoGauge gauges (BrandNew)(Smoked Series. Looks like Defi black faced gauges):

Digital Air/Fuel ratio = $65.00

Boost = $60.00

Oil Pressure = $65.00

Oil Temp = $65.00

Water Temp = SOLD

Vaccum = SOLD

- Sports Steering Wheel (GC)(Old School style) = $50.00ono

- Triple gauges holder for din slot (BrandNew) = $30.00

- 5" AutoGauge Monster Tacho with external shift light (BrandNew in Box)(Silver Faced) = $150.00

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72062-~clearingout~/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...