Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haven't got a scanner but ive got a rb30det with to4. but i couldn't get it to hold boost, so it went to 16psi at around 4 then dropped down to 11 after that.

101rwhp at 1000

119rwhp at 1500

168rwhp at 2000

231rwhp at 2500

258rwhp at 3000

270rwhp at 4000

252rwhp at 5000

255rwhp at 6000

245rwhp at 7000

read them straight of the sheet hope that helps.

That'd be one interesting dyno to see! If you can get access to a scanner I'd love to see it.

So you're saying your dyno sheet essentially has a flat power line from 3000rpm all the way to 7000rpm?

If those numbers are right, then your car is indeed making 650Nm at the wheels because 172rwkw at 2500rpm is ridiculously good. As you say, this is well above a 300kW Monaro and at much lower revs too. What mods have you got? I knew RB30s were good, but this is amazing.

My RB30DET (RB30 Forged pistons, R32 RB25DE Head) with the stock rb20det turbo and a quick 1hr tune made 100rwkw at 2000rpm, boost was 12psi @ 2000rpm then tailed off to 9psi by 4400rpm where it made peak power of 175rwkw.

4950rpm it was still making 175rwkw.

6100rpm it made 137rwkw.

100rwkw at 2000rpm = 477nM

175rwkw at 4400rpm = 379nM

175rwkw at 4950rpm = 337nM

137rwkw at 6100rpm = 214Nm

This power is at the wheels.

Add ~50kw for drivetrain loss, even though at 175rwkw its more likely to be 60rwkw loss.

So

150fwkw at 2000rpm = 715nM

225fwkw at 4400rpm = 487nM

225fwkw at 4950rpm = 433nM

187fwkw at 6100rpm = 292nM

It rev's like a Nissan Patrol 3.0TDI. :(

yes max power is 271rwhp 3500 and dips to 255rwhp at 5000. then is increases by 10rwhp to 7000.

it is a stock rb30 bottom end with a rb25de head. and a to4 turbo which has a rb25 exhaust housing which has been machined out. nothing much special. im running wolf 3dv4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...