Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

My heater/climate control unit does not seem to function properly. I only get cold air at 18'c or hot air at any tempertaure above 18'c.

I tried the settings with the a/c on and it made little difference (i.e. the air-con worked but still only left me with hot or cold - so settings in between).

I also tried running the diags and everything appeared normal for most of the settings. When I put it to the sensor check, where the number "5" appears, I pressed the window de-fog button (bottom right next to the recirc button), and i got a reading of between 18'c and 21'c for the first setting (which I assume is the inside air temp - seemed about right), and I got -30'c for the second (no idea what this reads).

Anyone got any ideas? It kinda sux only having a hot or a cold setting, because the climate control does not function properly....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7253-heaterclimate-control-temp/
Share on other sites

Behind the little slits in the centre console that look like

==

==

type thing...

There's a climate control temp sensor.... It should have an electrical plug and a suction hose connected to it... make sure bith of these are connected.....

Doc.

Tool the calibration in the climate controll is out or the external temp sensor is faulty. the climate control thinks the out side temp is -30 so it wants 2 blow hot air to warm the car up. try resetting the climate control (same way as rebooting the ecu) i think that should work. if not then need a new external temp sensor.

hope this helps

I've got the same problem..... where would I find the external temp. sensor??? :confused:

I'm guessing it's somewhere at the front of the car since thats where all the damage from 'the accident' happended, and before that it was all working :D

You'll find the external temp-sensor just under the horn.

At the very front of the car (in the middle).

It's black and is about 3-4 cm's long...

Hope that helps. (I had to re-locate mine as I installed an FMIC).

Cheers

Rob

  • 1 year later...

The external temp sensor on my r32 was on the frontbar just behind the number plate.

it's a black little like box, with a metal bracket on it, and a bit of wire.

mayb unplug it, clean it out, u may need to replace. Not sure how it works,

i think the sensor is an active sensor, so it might work from a voltage return.

or it might work by resistive.

I know when i diconected mine to see what would hapen it showed -30'C.

So check the wiring on the plug, move it about....

u may need a new sensor, or your wires shaged or mayb where ever it goes into is disconected or shaged.

Good luck.

The external temp sensor on my r32 was on the frontbar just behind the number plate.

it's a black little like box, with a metal bracket on it, and a bit of wire.

mayb unplug it, clean it out, u may need to replace. Not sure how it works,

i think the sensor is an active sensor, so it might work from a voltage return.  

or it might work by resistive.  

I know when i diconected mine to see what would hapen it showed -30'C.

So check the wiring on the plug, move it about....

u may need a new sensor, or your wires shaged or mayb where ever it goes into is disconected or shaged.

Good luck.

Madtrang,

I had a look and was able to find the sensor.

I am little curious as to how you disconnect it. Mind you I was using a blue led light in a car park (really hard to see but better then nothing), as I couldnt find a torch.

It had a cable coming out one side with tubing around it, and the otherside had the bracket connected to it.

So if you could give me any help with disconnecting/reconnecting it that would be fantastic!

-Alex

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...