Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am sooooo anoyed!!!!

OK first of my car has been engineered and had been rego'd in NSW. i knew there was some stuff missing like high brake light, rear child restraint things, but i got it over and it was cleared for rego in ACT but it was missing the vin plate so they said i needed an ID inspection so i did that and it turned out fine it had just had the new vin number plate from when it was bought into the country missing.. not compliance plate as it didnt need it, so then they said it needs a police check done because if this plate was stollen it could of been used on another car. any way while it was there they decided to check it all again and then they picked up on:

High mounted brake light

Unleaded sticker near the fuel cap

the brackets for the child restraints (holes there no brakets).

need to go to an engraver and get a new vin plate made up

and i need something on the inside of the drivers door which has tire sizes or something on it... not sure

and once i do that i can take it to get inspected again.

can anyone tell me what is needed on the inside of the drivers door for wheels or tires or something?? and can i make my own up?? just not sure what is needed there the others are a hassle put shouldnt be a problem

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72687-just-been-over-dickson/
Share on other sites

My car had no tyre placard on it when I took it over Dickson and I got done for the same thing. You have two choices;

1. Get the tyre placard off the original compliancer (form item 104 or something) -OR-

2. Get the wheels engineered and the engineer will provide you with a tyre placard.

They will -NOT- accept the Nissan placard as it is in Japanese and doesnt state it conforms with ADR's (I tried that).

The downfall for you is, as your car wasnt brought in under SEVS or the old scheme, there is no compliancing documentation or company for your car. Which leaves you with one option... you need to get the wheels engineered.

John Wilson did mine for $330.00, takes about 30 minutes and you just have to do some testing out at the old dragway (dodge some cones etc) and then affix the placard to your door jam, and take the engineering certificate to Dickson.

It sux (I had to get the engineer, as once again Dickson Pits will -NOT- accept the Nissan placard, and the company that complianced my car doesnt exist anymore) but its the only way.

On that note, all the things you mentioned above are pre-requisites for getting registration in the ACT. Your NSW engineering documents count for sweet f**k all here, and any ACT engineers you get to sign off a 15 yr import should provide you with the placard etc.

Gotta love different rules for different states :)

ha ha ha - you poor bugger, we have all had it tough with the trip to the pits.

John can give you the sticker for your fuel filler door, and as Nik mentioned he can also engineer your wheels - Although Nik, all he did with mine was measure them, had a quick look and said they were fine, then stuck a new placard on (maybe he liked me more :) LOL )

nugget, you can get a cheap 3rd brake light from kmart/ supercheap/ autobarn etc takes 15 min to install!

Do you have the child restraints? if not you can get them from Autopro in Tuggeranong for $30 a pair.

I imagine you have the intrusion bars? Go to an engraver, the guys at dickson wanted me to get a plate that had the DOTARS import approval number - make sure you have this as well, otherwise they will ping you again...

Seriously dude, silly trying them without all that stuff - I have posted sh1tloads on getting the 15yr cars through. if you need any help sing out.

John can give you the sticker for your fuel filler door, and as Nik mentioned he can also engineer your wheels - Although Nik, all he did with mine was measure them, had a quick look and said they were fine, then stuck a new placard on (maybe he liked me more :) LOL )  

I got to do 7000rpm launches on the old drag strip and he let me tool around for a bit, so Im not complaining :)

EDIT: Actually I now know why I had to do the extra testing. Because I had no tyre placard, DOTARS had on file under the old import scheme 16x7" wheels factory. Because mine are 17x9" and different offset front to rear (didnt match what DOTARS had on file a BNR32 -should- have), and I didnt have a placard, I had to prove they wernt detrimental to the handling of the car compared to the stockers.

When you get them engineered to take over Dickson its basically the same as the compliance place putting the placard on mine, so yeah would probably only take a couple of minutes :)

I got to do 7000rpm launches on the old drag strip and he let me tool around for a bit, so Im not complaining :)

EDIT: Actually I now know why I had to do the extra testing. Because I had no tyre placard, DOTARS had on file under the old import scheme 16x7" wheels factory. Because mine are 17x9" and different offset front to rear (didnt match what DOTARS had on file a BNR32 -should- have), and I didnt have a placard, I had to prove they wernt detrimental to the handling of the car compared to the stockers.

When you get them engineered to take over Dickson its basically the same as the compliance place putting the placard on mine, so yeah would probably only take a couple of minutes :)

hmm, that would have been a bit of fun! My rims are the same size as yours.

Yeah i know i needed that stuff but because it had already been regod in aust and all i was doing was changing ownership and changing rego i just needed to go to the servo to get it checked, they passed it and if i had of had a plate with the vin on it i would never have needed to go to dickson. it went over twice before anyone said anything. so i could have been home free... im thinking if i get the vin plate put on and take it to another servo maybe they might pass it and no one is the wiser.. hehe :innocent:

nah ill do it right will just be a pain. then once it goes over again they will prolly pick me up for have a small oil leak somewhere..... they always make things hard.

dont know if it has side intrusion bars. the guys there said it could but they dont look cause they dont go pulling the inside of the doors off. im guessing it was when it was engineered in NSW cause they did all the mirrors put the unleaded restrictor in the fuel tank must of had child restraints in there but someone has taken them out before me.

how do i get hold of that john wilson?? i have to get this all out of the way asap as the car is out of rego now :)

my bad should of got off my arse sooner and done it

btw all 4 of my wheels are 17x255 (17x10") so i think ill need them engineered

Yeah i know i needed that stuff but because it had already been regod in aust and all i was doing was changing ownership and changing rego i just needed to go to the servo to get it checked, they passed it and if i had of had a plate with the vin on it i would never have needed to go to dickson. it went over twice before anyone said anything. so i could have been home free... im thinking if i get the vin plate put on and take it to another servo maybe they might pass it and no one is the wiser.. hehe  :innocent:  

nah ill do it right will just be a pain. then once it goes over again they will prolly pick me up for have a small oil leak somewhere..... they always make things hard.

dont know if it has side intrusion bars. the guys there said it could but they dont look cause they dont go pulling the inside of the doors off. im guessing it was when it was engineered in NSW cause they did all the mirrors put the unleaded restrictor in the fuel tank must of had child restraints in there but someone has taken them out before me.

how do i get hold of that john wilson?? i have to get this all out of the way asap as the car is out of rego now  :)  

my bad should of got off my arse sooner and done it

btw all 4 of my wheels are 17x255 (17x10") so i think ill need them engineered

john's number is 0417 230 074. let him know that you have the NSW engineer cert and it might be a bit cheaper for you. to get everything done through him cost me $450 (inc 2 visits, supplying tyre placard, fuel door label etc etc)

I'd try to go through another inspector to avoid paying $450 for the cert. just get the VIN plate, then take it for inspection. NB after 2 years rego in one state it can be trasferred no worries.

how old is the car?

again i bring up the issue i had with transferring mine to ACT rego. i was told i didn't have to go dickson because the car is older than 10yrs. i dont know why, but i just took my car a local inspection place and they passed it on the spot and i got ACT rego the next day. could be worth a look.

Nah they said they dont check the side intrusion bars because they dont go ripping the door apart. plus it had been rego'd with an engineering cert so im guessing they just assume its been done... which is one nice thing.

just need to get motivated i really cant be bothered at the moment getting everything i need plus money issues

oh, and POST PIX OF YOUR RIDE.

its my avitar but here are some more for ya

gtr1small.JPG

gtr2small.JPG

gtr4small.JPG

gtr3small.JPG

I'm sure the whole RTA / Main roads / Rego whoever crew nationwide are controlled by a central office staffed by two dodgy assholes called Vargen Goksarka and Takit Updarea, and their assistant dodgy assholes Arvent Godarcloo and Farg Diviyno. Pricks every one of them. Seems their latest recruit, a chick called Iwanna Donger, narrowly beat Iyusa Strapon in the selection process. Apparently Iyusa Strapon didn't fit too well with the rest of the team as she was a bit plastic. I heard they are thinking of putting on some chick called Sky Linebanner too. God help us all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...