Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am sooooo anoyed!!!!

OK first of my car has been engineered and had been rego'd in NSW. i knew there was some stuff missing like high brake light, rear child restraint things, but i got it over and it was cleared for rego in ACT but it was missing the vin plate so they said i needed an ID inspection so i did that and it turned out fine it had just had the new vin number plate from when it was bought into the country missing.. not compliance plate as it didnt need it, so then they said it needs a police check done because if this plate was stollen it could of been used on another car. any way while it was there they decided to check it all again and then they picked up on:

High mounted brake light

Unleaded sticker near the fuel cap

the brackets for the child restraints (holes there no brakets).

need to go to an engraver and get a new vin plate made up

and i need something on the inside of the drivers door which has tire sizes or something on it... not sure

and once i do that i can take it to get inspected again.

can anyone tell me what is needed on the inside of the drivers door for wheels or tires or something?? and can i make my own up?? just not sure what is needed there the others are a hassle put shouldnt be a problem

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72687-just-been-over-dickson/
Share on other sites

My car had no tyre placard on it when I took it over Dickson and I got done for the same thing. You have two choices;

1. Get the tyre placard off the original compliancer (form item 104 or something) -OR-

2. Get the wheels engineered and the engineer will provide you with a tyre placard.

They will -NOT- accept the Nissan placard as it is in Japanese and doesnt state it conforms with ADR's (I tried that).

The downfall for you is, as your car wasnt brought in under SEVS or the old scheme, there is no compliancing documentation or company for your car. Which leaves you with one option... you need to get the wheels engineered.

John Wilson did mine for $330.00, takes about 30 minutes and you just have to do some testing out at the old dragway (dodge some cones etc) and then affix the placard to your door jam, and take the engineering certificate to Dickson.

It sux (I had to get the engineer, as once again Dickson Pits will -NOT- accept the Nissan placard, and the company that complianced my car doesnt exist anymore) but its the only way.

On that note, all the things you mentioned above are pre-requisites for getting registration in the ACT. Your NSW engineering documents count for sweet f**k all here, and any ACT engineers you get to sign off a 15 yr import should provide you with the placard etc.

Gotta love different rules for different states :)

ha ha ha - you poor bugger, we have all had it tough with the trip to the pits.

John can give you the sticker for your fuel filler door, and as Nik mentioned he can also engineer your wheels - Although Nik, all he did with mine was measure them, had a quick look and said they were fine, then stuck a new placard on (maybe he liked me more :) LOL )

nugget, you can get a cheap 3rd brake light from kmart/ supercheap/ autobarn etc takes 15 min to install!

Do you have the child restraints? if not you can get them from Autopro in Tuggeranong for $30 a pair.

I imagine you have the intrusion bars? Go to an engraver, the guys at dickson wanted me to get a plate that had the DOTARS import approval number - make sure you have this as well, otherwise they will ping you again...

Seriously dude, silly trying them without all that stuff - I have posted sh1tloads on getting the 15yr cars through. if you need any help sing out.

John can give you the sticker for your fuel filler door, and as Nik mentioned he can also engineer your wheels - Although Nik, all he did with mine was measure them, had a quick look and said they were fine, then stuck a new placard on (maybe he liked me more :) LOL )  

I got to do 7000rpm launches on the old drag strip and he let me tool around for a bit, so Im not complaining :)

EDIT: Actually I now know why I had to do the extra testing. Because I had no tyre placard, DOTARS had on file under the old import scheme 16x7" wheels factory. Because mine are 17x9" and different offset front to rear (didnt match what DOTARS had on file a BNR32 -should- have), and I didnt have a placard, I had to prove they wernt detrimental to the handling of the car compared to the stockers.

When you get them engineered to take over Dickson its basically the same as the compliance place putting the placard on mine, so yeah would probably only take a couple of minutes :)

I got to do 7000rpm launches on the old drag strip and he let me tool around for a bit, so Im not complaining :)

EDIT: Actually I now know why I had to do the extra testing. Because I had no tyre placard, DOTARS had on file under the old import scheme 16x7" wheels factory. Because mine are 17x9" and different offset front to rear (didnt match what DOTARS had on file a BNR32 -should- have), and I didnt have a placard, I had to prove they wernt detrimental to the handling of the car compared to the stockers.

When you get them engineered to take over Dickson its basically the same as the compliance place putting the placard on mine, so yeah would probably only take a couple of minutes :)

hmm, that would have been a bit of fun! My rims are the same size as yours.

Yeah i know i needed that stuff but because it had already been regod in aust and all i was doing was changing ownership and changing rego i just needed to go to the servo to get it checked, they passed it and if i had of had a plate with the vin on it i would never have needed to go to dickson. it went over twice before anyone said anything. so i could have been home free... im thinking if i get the vin plate put on and take it to another servo maybe they might pass it and no one is the wiser.. hehe :innocent:

nah ill do it right will just be a pain. then once it goes over again they will prolly pick me up for have a small oil leak somewhere..... they always make things hard.

dont know if it has side intrusion bars. the guys there said it could but they dont look cause they dont go pulling the inside of the doors off. im guessing it was when it was engineered in NSW cause they did all the mirrors put the unleaded restrictor in the fuel tank must of had child restraints in there but someone has taken them out before me.

how do i get hold of that john wilson?? i have to get this all out of the way asap as the car is out of rego now :)

my bad should of got off my arse sooner and done it

btw all 4 of my wheels are 17x255 (17x10") so i think ill need them engineered

Yeah i know i needed that stuff but because it had already been regod in aust and all i was doing was changing ownership and changing rego i just needed to go to the servo to get it checked, they passed it and if i had of had a plate with the vin on it i would never have needed to go to dickson. it went over twice before anyone said anything. so i could have been home free... im thinking if i get the vin plate put on and take it to another servo maybe they might pass it and no one is the wiser.. hehe  :innocent:  

nah ill do it right will just be a pain. then once it goes over again they will prolly pick me up for have a small oil leak somewhere..... they always make things hard.

dont know if it has side intrusion bars. the guys there said it could but they dont look cause they dont go pulling the inside of the doors off. im guessing it was when it was engineered in NSW cause they did all the mirrors put the unleaded restrictor in the fuel tank must of had child restraints in there but someone has taken them out before me.

how do i get hold of that john wilson?? i have to get this all out of the way asap as the car is out of rego now  :)  

my bad should of got off my arse sooner and done it

btw all 4 of my wheels are 17x255 (17x10") so i think ill need them engineered

john's number is 0417 230 074. let him know that you have the NSW engineer cert and it might be a bit cheaper for you. to get everything done through him cost me $450 (inc 2 visits, supplying tyre placard, fuel door label etc etc)

I'd try to go through another inspector to avoid paying $450 for the cert. just get the VIN plate, then take it for inspection. NB after 2 years rego in one state it can be trasferred no worries.

how old is the car?

again i bring up the issue i had with transferring mine to ACT rego. i was told i didn't have to go dickson because the car is older than 10yrs. i dont know why, but i just took my car a local inspection place and they passed it on the spot and i got ACT rego the next day. could be worth a look.

Nah they said they dont check the side intrusion bars because they dont go ripping the door apart. plus it had been rego'd with an engineering cert so im guessing they just assume its been done... which is one nice thing.

just need to get motivated i really cant be bothered at the moment getting everything i need plus money issues

oh, and POST PIX OF YOUR RIDE.

its my avitar but here are some more for ya

gtr1small.JPG

gtr2small.JPG

gtr4small.JPG

gtr3small.JPG

I'm sure the whole RTA / Main roads / Rego whoever crew nationwide are controlled by a central office staffed by two dodgy assholes called Vargen Goksarka and Takit Updarea, and their assistant dodgy assholes Arvent Godarcloo and Farg Diviyno. Pricks every one of them. Seems their latest recruit, a chick called Iwanna Donger, narrowly beat Iyusa Strapon in the selection process. Apparently Iyusa Strapon didn't fit too well with the rest of the team as she was a bit plastic. I heard they are thinking of putting on some chick called Sky Linebanner too. God help us all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...